Thread: 51 MG restoration.

Thanks Colin.
Can’t believe how fast I drove it seeing how soft she is underneath now, hehe.
Gonna be like brand new when done though and safer at those speeds than ever before.
Take you for a rip when I’m done. Will finally have passenger leg room.
Nice to see that shave vid you did with that western kami, nice blade bro!

This article made me think of this thread. [The picture attached.]

https://www.startribune.com/mpls-bus...cle/572206032/

Originally Posted by 32t

This article made me think of this thread. [The picture attached.]

https://www.startribune.com/mpls-bus...cle/572206032/

Most know that I readily acknowledge that I'm a Mastodon with computers and so I presume that it's just me but when I clicked on the link all I got was this--

Close the pop up and the article is, in part about a business owner with a sweet TD.

Second trip to my new older gent Mg brother proved even more lucrative.
$100 for all the wood inside, and the two door skins themselves as well as original dash. Lots of this will just be templates, but way better unaltered condition than what I have now so pretty happy. And a bunch of it can be spliced to what I already have and save both time and money on the wood restoration steps.

And more pictures were taken of key design nuances that no longer existed on my ride.
Like how the front and rear quarter panels don’t actually touch or overlap, and that they both folded under the lower edge of the wood. Mine are so altered along the bottoms I never would have known and overlapped things. And definitely 22 gage steel on the body, thicker on the rails and hood.

Or how it could look with the door open.

Nice score!

Interesting about how those panels have what appears to be an open gap that water and even worse snow/salt mixture from those Canadian Winters to get into and start trouble. Oh well, what do I know

For sure Roy. I will aspire to have tighter dolly work, and will also be epoxying all the exterior wood in marine grade sealant. Wonder what Outback uses in his industry.
I’m sure west or the like makes something better than the zero protection that they used 70 years ago to seal the wood.
I accept the standard Mg rebuilders consensus that no glue was used between the joining wood, only hardware, thus the car could flex on its frame and not split. But I will have no issues bonding everything individually with all the wonderful new adhesives/strengthened available to ensure things last longer than 70 years from this rebuild forward.
I will still need to order a fair bit of new timber that I just don’t have enough to reference, but half of what I was going to as I started to peel back the layers.

'Some' of the modern adhesives and other bonding agents are incredible. While I'd still weld panels (like the guy in the video I emailed you) many years ago in a car magazine (Hot Rod?) They were showing an adhesive to bond metal to metal instead of welding.

They cut a square in the middle of a door panel or such then used a pneumatic hammer and a special tool to make a 'Dog Leg' in the panel so that the patch piece would be level with the panel.

Everything was ground clean, the adhesive applied and the patch installed and clamped and left to set up.

After the set up time was done they used a ball peen hammer and started pounding on the patch away from the adhesive and they eventually tore the patch and it never did let go from the adhesive

But there again---I'd weld panels as that's going to be the best and most permanent bond

Wood order placed with Hutson from UK.

From all reports the American wood suppliers leave too much relief in their mitres, ostensibly for ease of install regardless of gaps. But I want this tight as I can make it and am going right back to frame to do it.
Plus keeping it all original, or English, in the wood, just seems right.
Here’s an old vid (80s) from Hutson, building an Mg tub in their facility.
Part of my learnings and confidence to redo all this comes from watching this video. A lot!

https://youtu.be/OEqpqZj8FPw

Work platform almost ready to move the tub to and I am taking next week off to get most of the tear down done.
My hope is to have everything in the garage that needs work, protected, before the fall wetness besets us all.
Cheers gents.

Hands are getting grimy now, hehe
Normally I use powdered laundry soap as my go to inexpensive effective hand scrub after oily grimy work. Stuffs getting more expensive and less easy to find as pods take over.tried this and it works awesome.

Squirts out as foam and you apply it dry, right on the grime.
Surfactants or whatever are such that it really lifts the slick quickly. Add water after a few moments, you’ll know when, and hands are clean, cept under the nails, still need a brush for those.
Anyway, just a quick share.