Thread: 51 MG restoration.

Having electrical protection is wise. How many fuses do you figure you'll need?

Ignition, lights, heater, auxiliary., so 4. Looking for an old fuse block online, maybe look at marine sites too. Boats might be more likely to have the kind of fuse block I want..

Originally Posted by MikeB52

Ignition, lights, heater, auxiliary., so 4. Looking for an old fuse block online, maybe look at marine sites too. Boats might be more likely to have the kind of fuse block I want..

I would presume that you'd want the newer style fuses instead of the glass or ceramic?

I’d prefer glass actually. Not period correct or anything, I just prefer em.
They become vogue in the early 60s I think, but not sure on that.

Originally Posted by MikeB52

Ignition, lights, heater, auxiliary., so 4. Looking for an old fuse block online, maybe look at marine sites too. Boats might be more likely to have the kind of fuse block I want..

I am sure I have what you are looking for around here somewhere......

But I am sure when all is said and done getting a new one would be cheaper and more convenient!LOL

Little gadget I won’t need often, but surely do right now to match up my repair panels to the originals.

Seems my body panels are 20 gage, and my rear tie bar or cross brace is 18 gage.
Thicker than I thought.. but not surprising as they feel thicker than more modern cars.

I myself have purchased tools that could have not been purchased if I would have taken the time to research how to modify or such. I would presume that you have either a micrometer OR a caliber of some sort--

http://dhfco.com/pdf/DHF%20Catalog_wire_sheet.pdf

I have both, but for gaging body steel, what with the twistin and clipping over rusty painted edges, I’d rather use this $10 piece of steel. I can scrape off paint and rust, or work over the edge to make sure I’m on the right size.
I like my precision instruments to stay in the wood shop.
But that’s a good chart to have copied and up on the wall.

While I await some parts I turned to the rear brakes and bearings.

The half shaft pulled out clean and easy, but the DPO seems to have replaced a rear bearing, and didn’t use a wrench on the nut, he used a punch!

So now I’m torn between believing the bearing is new ish and leaving it be, or filing down the damaged nut to some semblance of castellated again and finding the 1 61/64 8 pt socket needed to do the job properly....
The shoes were covered in oil so I’m thinking a seals gone bad, so will probably tear it all apart while here....

might have used a screwdriver or chisel to remove it last time. I've seen that a lot.