Thread: Any Archers out there??

Originally Posted by animalwithin

Yea I've checked out both those charts, I guess I need someone to measure the arrow length while I'm at draw to get an exact measurement.

Couldn't you use a piece of string, from the bow to the end of the arrow, or use a marker pen against the bow and draw an arrow along it.
I am not an archer though so I am just guessing

Originally Posted by edhewitt

Couldn't you use a piece of string, from the bow to the end of the arrow, or use a marker pen against the bow and draw an arrow along it.
I am not an archer though so I am just guessing

The standard [for me anyway] is to have an arrow with markings on it and have someone look at it as you draw.

You could use a mirror.

I know a guy that shot a mirror checking his form!

Originally Posted by 32t

The standard [for me anyway] is to have an arrow with markings on it and have someone look at it as you draw.

You could use a mirror.

I know a guy that shot a mirror checking his form!

I did think of an arrow with markings, but it just seemed too straight forward, so I thought "how can I make this more complicated"

Originally Posted by edhewitt

I did think of an arrow with markings, but it just seemed too straight forward, so I thought "how can I make this more complicated"

I was having issues with a problem at work today. I asked a coworker for a different point of view. We still were stuck. I took a break and when I came back it was right in front of my face.

To keep this on track many of the things that are being mentioned here are technical. especially if you are new to the sport none of this is going to make any difference.

The first 90% is "easy" Then you get into the last 10%.

Originally Posted by 32t

The first 90% is "easy" Then you get into the last 10%.

Isn't that where the "stick" breaks ?

^There are some stories out there of people shooting with arrows at incorrect lengths and the shaft splinters/shatters.

I do have some arrows that I recall were longer than the others, If I mark it with inches and measure an inch past the rest when I fully draw it, there's my correct arrow length.

Originally Posted by animalwithin

^There are some stories out there of people shooting with arrows at incorrect lengths and the shaft splinters/shatters.

I was referring, jokingly, to the old saying " a drawn bow is a stick 9/10 broken "

Originally Posted by onimaru55

I was referring, jokingly, to the old saying " a drawn bow is a stick 9/10 broken "

This is an old and on running thread! But when I saw that my mate Oz said in I believe post # 36:

Hmmm... This thread is sadly lacking in pictures

I thought;

hmmmmm

I guess that no one told these archers about any of what's been said in this tread!!!

Well at least not lately!!

Originally Posted by animalwithin

Yea I've checked out both those charts, I guess I need someone to measure the arrow length while I'm at draw to get an exact measurement.

Originally Posted by 32t

The standard [for me anyway] is to have an arrow with markings on it and have someone look at it as you draw.

You could use a mirror.

I know a guy that shot a mirror checking his form!

Originally Posted by animalwithin

^There are some stories out there of people shooting with arrows at incorrect lengths and the shaft splinters/shatters.

I do have some arrows that I recall were longer than the others, If I mark it with inches and measure an inch past the rest when I fully draw it, there's my correct arrow length.

Yep. Just put a nock on an uncut shaft and make a line around the shaft from the 27" distance from the nock, mark a few more past that and you should be able to see at what point your arrow 'tip' is on the rest (make sure you draw using correct form and posture as you would normally do). For target points you'll want the tip slightly forward of, or safely on the rest. Hunting arrows as I said earlier you want sitting further forward (about an inch or so).


Mick

Originally Posted by animalwithin

Thanks SVMAD! I have heard that an FOC of greater than 10 is ideal, that doesn't help much haha. Does that mean 10%+ of the arrow's total weight lies in the broadhead? At the moment I'm shooting a 60 lb Hoyt recurve and definitely want to set up my own arrows but there is so much out there. I have a 28" draw length so I'm assuiming 29" shafts would be ideal, target only for now. I want to use a 125 gr fieldpoint but I know there is much controversy between 100/125. And I'm not sure if 29" is best or perhaps 28".

I was looking at aluminum Easton shafts, was going to fletch them with 5" feathers, Easton knocks.

I would keep them at 29inches, and if you feel later that you want to go to 28.5 or 28 inches, you can experiment. 5 Inch feathers are the best, especially in recurve, where it will stabilize your arrow the quickest.

FOC refers to the middlepoint of the weight of your arrow. Remember, if you have an 28inch arrow, the middlepoint would be 14inches (middlepoint of arrow). However, FOC refers to the percentage that the weight point of the arrow is from the middlepoint of the arrow. Thus, if you have a 28 inch arrow with a 14inch middlepoint and a 10% FOC, this would mean that the balancing point of your arrow would be 10% (or 2.8inches) towards the fieldpoint or BH. Remeber, that the higher your FOC, the more leverage it gives the feathers to steer your arrow. Thus the more FOC, the easier feathers would correct your arrows flight path and stabilize your arrow. Please let me know if this makes sense.
Thanks