Thread: Two Shapton 8000 Glass Options?

Originally Posted by kevint

Does this mean: I won a free 16K JPgs

Ya_mashi_ta So-sans website has Jp gstones in full spectrum. He also has JP market Pro. maybe the pro varities are the same.

Not a chance, Maybe I'll get Tom Nielsen to make me a razor...
M

Originally Posted by JimmyHAD

This is part 2. I didn't want to make the first post too long. I have had a 16k glass briefly and I thought it was very good. I traded it because I already have the full set of Shapton Pros and with a 12k, and a 15k couldn't see the point in keeping it unless I was going for a full set of glass and I decided I was happy enough with the pros. Many members both honemiesters and honesters have had great performance on razors with the 16k.

Anyway, my take is that if you are going to polish all of the scratches from the previous grit completely off then maybe Harrelson's gray 8k may be the ticket. If you want to sharpen the razor to shave ready IMO polishing all the scratches out of the bevel up to 16 or 30k isn't necessary and I would argue isn't advisable.

For the bevel setting I could see polishing those out but when you get into 4/8 territory and the razor is sharp enough to shave you're there and polishing the bevel beyond that is optional and I would think could lead to overhoning for many. If someone knows their stuff and they want to look at the bevel under the microscope and see it sans scratches then rock on.

Anyway Jimmy,
This is where this post went wrong. Read my post. I was not talking about taking out ALL the scratches from previous grits. Totally talking about the 16k. I still love you man>

Originally Posted by Kingfish

Anyway Jimmy,
This is where this post went wrong. Read my post. I was not talking about taking out ALL the scratches from previous grits. Totally talking about the 16k. I still love you man>

No worries Mike, I was wrong once before as long as the shave is smooth and close that is all that matters.

Intrigued by all of this new information, I contacted Shapton USA.

As we've seen from japan-tool.com in AU, they have the full line of JP glass, obviously formulated for the Japanese/carbon steel chisel and plane blade market.

The info I got from USA is that they will be carrying the 4K, 8K and 16K JP stones for now. I will be looking into more options from them as I am liking the feel of the 8K JP stone right now....

Originally Posted by jendeindustries

Intrigued by all of this new information, I contacted Shapton USA.

As we've seen from japan-tool.com in AU, they have the full line of JP glass, obviously formulated for the Japanese/carbon steel chisel and plane blade market.

The info I got from USA is that they will be carrying the 4K, 8K and 16K JP stones for now. I will be looking into more options from them as I am liking the feel of the 8K JP stone right now....

Tom,
Have you noticed that the 8000 Jp is sooooo nice to the older sheffield blades in comparison with some of the harder steel razors? The bevels look more polished than scratched.
Mike

I sharpened up a Wade and Butcher using the 1,2,&4K white glass, then went to the 8JP, then the 16 &30K white. As I said before, the feel of the 8JP was very similar to the 8pro, which I have always not really liked (feeling-wise, not result-wise), but for some reason, there was something just a little different with the JP that just felt "righter" in this case.

Upon going to the 16K white from the 8JP there was a definite un-uniformity in the feeling that is not there when going from 8K white to 16K white. However, I must agree that 8KJP by itself feels very smooth. I didn't try the 4K JP this time. I now wish I had.... I've still got a few more ebay specials to play with, though.

If the white are specifically for A-2 stainless, and the JP for carbon, then theoretically, we can use both sets for razors - one for stainless, and he JP for carbon - provided it makes a big enough difference. I've written to japan-tool in AU, but he is closed until Sept., so we'll have to wait to see.

The past weeks I've been dying to post on this topic and the scratch marks one. When you combine the two threads together, they make for a very interesting thinking about the approach to razor sharpening. It really got my mind going.....

It's good to be thinking about sharpening again!

Do you look at the beels under magnification? If you can look at the edge and bevel of the 8000Jp and then after the 16000 white and tell me what you see.The 16000 does not refine after the 8000jp. The logical progression would be the 30000 if need or pastes if needed. I shaved of the 8000jp and it was quite remarkable. From me playing with it the Jp 8000 is going to me at it's best for the vintage blades. I have not done enough real hard swedish one to comment yet. The darn thing never get dull. I just did a trio of Challenge blades and they are harder by my accounts and it was good but the stone was not at it's best. It might be this is a 'nitch" stone for the older carbon blades. IMHO it has to be seen to be believed.
Mike

No, I didn't look at them under magnification. I look at the 16K and 30K, usually, but by that point when sharpening progressively, the scratches are pretty smooth and the surface is shiny.

I did that last blade using a pyramid between 8KJP and 16K white, and only looked at the final edge at 16K. There were more scratches than usual because of the pyramid, but they were consistent.

So what you're saying is that the 8K JP leaves scratches that are equivalent, if not equal or "better" than the 16K white? Meaning that those scratches I saw after the 16K were rougher than the 8K JP? Now I need to look into that..... If only Japan-tool would hurry and answer my email......

Picture this Tom. The abrasive particles of the 16000 are harder and more blocky shaped. The 8000 Jp are more like soft pancakes. So on softer carbon steels the scratches are flatter even though bigger and they don't have the bite of the harder abrasive.
When you get the time it would be good to see if my evaluation is sound or if it is way out in lala land. I trust that in time you will get the proper info from the technical people minus proprietary information. I know lots of this stuff is guarded and we are not asking for you to commit industrial crimes
Mike

do you mean the very abrasive particles are softer?

As far as I know the GS as well as the Pro use white Al2O3 as abrasive.
Al2O3 is splintered and will always have the same hardness.
Or are you talking about the bonding, that will certainly effect the sharpening sensation
and the depth of scratches