Thread: Can't get 2 razors to shave

When I mute the tip on a razor, it typically is another about half of the bevel deep. Truly you need only take the very tip off, that’s the part that can bite. It can be done on the 8K or 12K easy enough.
I don’t really understand the lifting the heel off the stone to get the toe. When I do an X stroke by the time I get to where I am ever so slightly lifting the heel to actually get the toe, I’m far enough along in my X stroke that the heel is not on the hone anymore.

Originally Posted by mpukas

Yes, my strops are clean. I had just cleaned and re-charged them prior to this shave.

But you are still finishing on un pasted strops right?

Originally Posted by mpukas

How important is it, how much does it matter, that the stria is perpendicular to the edge?

In my opinion not very important at all. By the time you are finishing the stria should be fine enough to not matter.

Originally Posted by mpukas

A couple of questions;

How important is it, how much does it matter, that the stria is perpendicular to the edge? I get that the stria should be even. I've been trying to keep the stria perpendicular, and therefore paying close attention to the path of the x-stroke particularly at the tip.

With an up-swept toe, I assume, and gather from reading here, that the heel of the blade needs to be come off the stone as well as be raised off the stone, and the end of the arc of an x-stroke needs to be modified to accommodate the up-sweep. Correct, not correct? It's been difficult to keep the stria even at the tip.

I wear thin sideburns (I'm mainly bald, but trim my head and sideburns w/ an electric clipper once a week, therefore I don't have a cleanly shaven head; did that for about 6 months just to try it, succeeded, but ultimately wasn't worth the effort to me). I like to get close with the tip of the razor, but this tip gouged me twice, as I mentioned. How much of the tip is usual to mute, and what's the best practice to do so? Or, should I try to increase the upsweep further and reset the bevel there?

Thanks again fellas.

Doesn't have to be perpendicular. Not good to have them parallel, but anything in between is fine. In fact sometimes having different stage scratches at different angles helps in telling them apart, if you are using a microscope.

Originally Posted by bluesman7

But you are still finishing on un pasted strops right?

yes, final stropping on clean, naked leather

Originally Posted by RezDog

I don’t really understand the lifting the heel off the stone to get the toe. When I do an X stroke by the time I get to where I am ever so slightly lifting the heel to actually get the toe, I’m far enough along in my X stroke that the heel is not on the hone anymore.

When I get to the end of the x-stroke and the heel is off the razor, I'm finding I have to adjust the arc of the stroke as well as slightly raise the heel to hone the bevel at the up-sweep.

These pics are all post 12k?

First lap your stones, make sure the edge is straight, and remove each grits stria with the following stone.

Lap your stones, you cannot check them with a straight edge. Here is a post on lapping a stone. ( SYNTHETIC STONE LAPPING 101)

Remove the frown, bread-knifing or high angle honing. Fully reset the bevel on your 2k. Ink the bevel with colored sharpie ink to be sure you are honing to the edge.

The frown is probably from .50 um diamond on felt. Diamonds are aggressive, super aggressive with pressure on felt. If you have a frown, you cannot hone the edge fully until you grind the edge flat.

Once the bevel is set, then it is just a matter of removing each grits stria with each stone.

Match your bevels with the pics of the bevels in the Second Try at Honing post at each stone. With each stone, the edge should get straighter. At 8k is should be straight and chip free. If you snag a Qtip run along the edge, Joint the edge, and reset the edge 15-20 laps.

Alternate the final 10-15 laps. For example, 1k straight, angled 4k, straight 8k, angled 12k. You can easily see if you are removing ALL the previous angled stria.

Attached is a pic from the Second Try at Honing of his 8K edge.

Yes, all pics are post-12K and post-stropping, pre-shave. 12k is Shapton Pro.

I've followed your post on lapping stones. My stones are flat. Actually just ordered an Atoma #400. I can use it for other tasks as well as flattening stones. Wanted one for a long time, and just finally pulled the trigger, against better judgement... I won't regret it. Did not know about diamond on felt possibly causing a frown - makes sense, thx for explaining that. Will be more careful, or prolly avoid all together. I've done the q-tip test at each stone, and don't get any snagging of the cotton.

My biggest frustration is getting the stria out from each previous stone. Great suggestion to alternate the angle from each stone. I'll try it. Under the scope, I can tilt the bevel at the spine and either get it look clean and shiny, or scratchy as I've posted. Different lighting conditions also make the bevels look completely different. Like I said, under a loupe, the bevel looks shinier and shiner at each stone, but the under the scope it looks different.

I'm putting this razor aside for now. I feel I'm needlessly grinding it away. Even though it's not a great razor, there's some sentimental value in it for me, and I don't want to waste it. I'm getting a couple cheap practice razors, and will come back to this one later. I'm not satisfied/confident in my technique/knowledge/skill. Thanks again, greatly appreciated! mpp

Another question - in general, is there an ideal or standard bevel angle for straight razors?

Originally Posted by mpukas

Another question - in general, is there an ideal or standard bevel angle for straight razors?

15°-20° seems to be most commmon and comfortable, with the sweet spot around 16°-17°.

Regards,
Pieter