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12-18-2011, 01:10 PM #91
- Join Date
- May 2005
- Location
- Saint Paul, Minnesota, United States
- Posts
- 8,023
- Blog Entries
- 1
Thanked: 2209Yup, for sure! You new guys who just acquired your Nortons be sure to lap them first. Look for Lapping 101 in the Wiki.
BTW, if your going to use sandpaper for lapping be sure to not use much pressure. You don't want to embed any of the sandpaper grit into the hone. Just be patient.Last edited by randydance062449; 12-18-2011 at 01:24 PM.
Randolph Tuttle, a SRP Mentor for residents of Minnesota & western Wisconsin
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12-19-2011, 07:12 AM #92
- Join Date
- May 2011
- Location
- Mount Torrens, South Australia
- Posts
- 5,979
Thanked: 485Yes, you need to lap the lapping stone that you will use to lap the Norton. But before you do this you need to lap the thing you'll use to lap the lapping stone. And before you do that you'll need to lap the thing you'll use to lap the thing you'll use to lap the lapping stone, and before that... :-) I'm currently lapping my glass topped table with another glass topped table...
On a serious side, apparently you do need to lap the lapping stone, but I didn't. I bought an 'Ice Bear Flattening Stone' from Carba-Tec on Magill road. It probably does need to be lapped...OTOH, I may lap the stone on wet and dry on the glass topped table, then re-draw the grid and lap with the lapping stone and I should be able to see if there's a need to lap the lapping stone...(maybe?)...Stranger, if you passing meet me and desire to speak to me, why should you not speak to me? And why should I not speak to you?
Walt Whitman
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12-19-2011, 07:18 AM #93
FWIW, I lapped my norton 4/8 on glass with wet and dry (360 grit). Did a fine job.
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12-19-2011, 09:40 AM #94
Thanks for that... I think. I may have to to go visit cabra tec.
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12-19-2011, 10:24 AM #95
This is going to be an interesting exercise that I will follow with interest.
My two DOVO's are in rotation and tweaked to perfection so I must reluctantly decline. Perhaps I will invest in another cheap, used blade for the next round of fun.
However, the Norton 4k/8k is certainly my go to combo for setting a new bevel and edge. I bet this is about all most SR users will need to get a great shave.
Question: Are you going to paste and strop following the Norton combo or just leather?
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12-19-2011, 10:33 AM #96
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12-19-2011, 03:07 PM #97
- Join Date
- Aug 2011
- Location
- Upstate New York
- Posts
- 5,782
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Thanked: 4249Gentleman,
My choice had been made.
On the left side we have a Puma 39 5/8 Pour Barbe tres dure!!
On the right we have a Geneva cutlery pyramid 7 5/8.
Both great shavers both edge have been killed.
Hopefully with some guidance i will be able to bring them back
to shaving conditions!!
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12-19-2011, 08:47 PM #98
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The Following User Says Thank You to bman40 For This Useful Post:
mav13 (12-21-2011)
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12-20-2011, 05:55 PM #99
Look what came today....
Of corse I had my DMT sent to work so I have to wait till tomorrow to do anything with it but. MUST. resist. till. then!!!!!
this is interested in my haste to open mine and post i then went back to read some posts i had missed and saw the above.....when i looked at mine it looks like the 220/1k was made in mexico and the 4/8k was made in Italy and the US......not that it really matters but is that the norm with Nortons?Last edited by BenjamanBarker; 12-20-2011 at 06:00 PM.
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12-20-2011, 06:01 PM #100
I took delivery of a Norton combination hone today as well.
The two sides were manufactured in different locations.
The 4K side was Italian and the 8K side was made in the US.
This hone was very light and porous, very thirsty and an absolute dream to flatten compared to most others I have.
It came with a really coarse surface, and I had to lap away quite a bit of stone to get to good material.
Anyways, I'm putting a couple razors to it tonight, a wee familiarization before the JaNorton eventLast edited by Birnando; 12-20-2011 at 06:17 PM. Reason: Spelling
Bjoernar
Um, all of them, any of them that have been in front of me over all these years....