What are you working on?

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10-21-2017, 05:08 AM
engine46

4 Attachment(s)

The other day, I read where someone was going to try & put the smile back on a swayback blade. I figured I would share my way. I have a Wosty that is about 7/8 at the toe & between 13/16 & 6/8 at the heel so I got out one of my compass tools. I made it where the pencil was shorter than the other side & I adjusted it at the narrowest width of the blade. I made a nice mark going from heel to toe on it that matched the spine but it needed to be darker so I taped a fine point Sharpie to the pencil & you can see a rough idea of what I got.

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For those who don't know, always grind any excess off lengthwise & not perpendicular to the edge or you will break the blade!!!

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A bench grinder or Dremel can be used but make sure you have a glass of water to cool it. Once you're done, the razor won't be the only thing smiling! ;)

Of course my line isn't exactly at the grinding area but you get my point. Keep 'er as wide as possible.

EDIT: I forgot to mention it is a good idea to put a washer or similar (like I did here) to keep from accidentally pushing in & out a little when going down the spine with it:

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10-21-2017, 12:24 PM
ejmolitor37

I like that idea! I always trace the spine on paper then check the edge to the tracing as I'm running on my diamond plate until I get to the lower end of my 3 measurements. This seems a bit quicker, must admit though I'm not a fan of power tools even after a couple years of doing this. Had one stupid incident and have pretty well steered clear. I'm gonna try this anyway, thanks!
10-21-2017, 12:59 PM
engine46

Eric, I should have put that power tools aren't required to do this. I was basically showing how to make the mark on the blade. I have used a DMT to grind down a blade before but I have also done it like the way shown. Nothing will usually happen to the blade if ground correctly, kinda like the correct way of using a Dremel but in this case it applies to a bench grinder too.
10-21-2017, 01:41 PM
Gasman

I too damaged a blade with a dremel. But was lucky enough to save it and make a shorty. The dremel and sharp objects bothers me. Bench grinder seens a bit safer of the DMT is best but slow. Sometimes slow is just a better way to go. Great idea on the way of doing it 46. Just another option to put in my books. I normally trace spine on paper twice at the spacing I want the blade to be and get to work.
10-21-2017, 02:11 PM
ejmolitor37

I'm gonna give the Dremel a shot. Last time I had a power roll wreck a blade it was a GD thank God and I was trying to buff it. Threw it right on the garage floor and broke it. I took it as a sign from above to knock that crap off and get a real blade to repair. But this seems way nicer when doing a major blade correction.
10-21-2017, 02:17 PM
engine46

Quote:

Originally Posted by ejmolitor37

I'm gonna give the Dremel a shot. Last time I had a power roll wreck a blade it was a GD thank God and I was trying to buff it. Threw it right on the garage floor and broke it. I took it as a sign from above to knock that crap off and get a real blade to repair. But this seems way nicer when doing a major blade correction.

Thank God it was only a GD! That's how we get better, we learn from our mistakes.
10-21-2017, 03:35 PM
Gasman

2 Attachment(s)

This Elk Cutlery still has a bit of pitting on the edge on one side near the edge but I think its going to survive. Had a wavy edge. now its got a matching smile to the spine. Re-worked the stabilizer but it might need a touch more work on it. I'll put it on the stones today and hope for the best. still needs a touch more cleaning inside the scales but its about ready.
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I tried the Rubbing alcohol on the yellow scales after the pin test. It didn't smell like burning hair so not Horn. After a couple minutes in the Alcohol it started to feel gummy so it was melting. Plastic is my guess. I melted a little channel on the inside of the crack and will dab some CA in it. Might end-up with a little dirty crack look but I feel this might turn out ok. Guess I'll see when I pin it.
10-21-2017, 06:16 PM
BeJay

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Playing around with a GD. I reshaped the tip and now I’m grinding a sway into the spine. Then maybe a thumb notch and the badly need heel work. I’ve had this one for a while and it will take a nice edge so it may turn out to be a decent little razor when I’m done. If I like how it comes out I’ll make some nice scales for it.
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10-21-2017, 09:05 PM
cudarunner

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As I posted before I helped clean out my best friends home after his passing about a week ago or so. However I had commitments and couldn't help for all four days (God what a Pack Rat!)

Anyway my friend was staying with me and he brought me something that they'd found and I've been busy cleaning it up. It will come in handy when I travel on the Harley.

Between the flash and the LED lighting the first pic isn't very good the second was from yesterday using light from the window.

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The razor is a Gillette made the first quarter of 1932 and looks brand new. It didn't need any more than a good sanitizing/no metal polish of any kind.

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Any ideas of how old the blade and or the Williams is? :thinking:
10-21-2017, 10:12 PM
Geezer

Quote:

Originally Posted by engine46

For those who don't know, always grind any excess off lengthwise & not perpendicular to the edge or you will break the blade!!!

Don't do as I did, I used a coarse HF diamond plate sharpener and did the bevels too..
BAAAD idea! The scratches were so deep that I lost a lot of width just trying to keep the bevel from breaking off as I honed it. Wouldn't hold till I had gotten to the bottom of those lengthwise scratches; only visible by polishing the bevel...
:aargh:
~Richard
PS. Use a plate perpendicular to the edge toward the end of th shaping.