Thread: What are you working on?

Originally Posted by JP5

Thanks Mike. Never used Cr/Ox, Krokus, or decent rouge before. What point do you start polishing in one direction? Back and forth or just from spine to edge? Kind of reminds me of the lines on some blades in like new condition, but they aren't as uniform and glossy.

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I don't know. Certainly wouldn't hurt. I used to think maybe horn would work better since it is the same material, but the results you've gotten with the bog oak are amazing. Wish I could see a side by side comparison or experiment with them. I may try using black pigment to make the horn darker if it doesn't look dark enough when making the "Bondo."
Do you use sandpaper or file to make the dust you use???
Seems like the silica from the sandpaper could contaminate it.

I use a drum sander to make the dust, and sand the blade from spine to edge almost exclusively, but will use the rouge and Cr/Ox , length wise on a rag. Its hard to duplicate, and easier to find something that works for you.

Hadn't really thought about using polishing compounds on rags. I should have one of those hard Harbor Freight rouge bars here somewhere. It was too hard to load a wheel with when I got it! I may try experimenting with it when I have the opportunity.
Thanks again Mike.

Finished the Wosty, tonight.

Couldn't use the original collars, they were too far gone. About the time things tightened up, the pins went through, and they popped off. Luckily JP5 had sent me some replacements from Mr. Kenny, and a bit of brass rod from the bench, the original wedge, and it's alive once more.





Honed n ready ta go..!





Thanks for the Razor, Tom. Its nice to see kinfolk reunited.

Originally Posted by JP5

Hadn't really thought about using polishing compounds on rags. I should have one of those hard Harbor Freight rouge bars here somewhere. It was too hard to load a wheel with when I got it! I may try experimenting with it when I have the opportunity.
Thanks again Mike.

I put oil on the rag, it helps melt the rouge. ( have the same bar as u )

Just got this. Looks like only surface rust and patina and some scratches that I hope to clean up. There appears to be some bluing or black stain on the tang that I want to avoid destroying in the cleaning process. Any suggestions for how to either clean it or restore it after cleaning?

ANy information on thi is razor would be greatly appreciated.

You can restore it with regular cold bluing from the sporting arms store. Bluing is very oil sensitive though and to avoid blank spots nitrile gloves, and clean everything really well with acetone or nail polish remover.

Nice job Mike. That turned out really well.

As far as bluing, ive been wanting to try this myself, just havent gotten around to it. Figure is you loose the blue while restoring, its no big deal, as you can re-blu it.

Originally Posted by Gasman

Nice job Mike. That turned out really well.

As far as bluing, ive been wanting to try this myself, just havent gotten around to it. Figure is you loose the blue while restoring, its no big deal, as you can re-blu it.

Interesting web article comparing various bluing agents. His final conclusion is that just polishing metal without bluing provides the greatest corrosion resistance. Makes me wonder why the bluing was used on razors at all - just for appearance?

https://www.huntingnet.com/forum/gun...ts-w-pics.html

That Wostenholm came out great Mike. The new collars looks good. Are those silver scales original to that Wostenholm?
I was wondering if oil would help load the rag, so I'm glad you mentioned that. Thanks


T

I finally got this one finished up. Just a plain jane W&B, 13/16 near wedge. It didn't come with any scales, so I made some period replicas that I thought would compliment the blade shape. Separate post in the restoration thread with more pics. Enjoy!