Thread: What are you working on?

Originally Posted by JP5

That would be a quiet project to work on. Don't have any fabric components yet. I just use my DIY bridle strop. Probably shouldn't try ironing it.

If I ever finish these, I may have some left.
I will send you one if I do....

That would be great if it works out. Thanks either way.

Yikes. Sounds like that iron is ready for retirement.

Originally Posted by RezDog

Very nice. I bet you could make a simple bone cap for the bottom or get fancy with different inlays.

thx,
another bone I do not have, that was all
I could try a buffalo horn cap, or wood, but I like it too. If anyone asks me about it and wants changes I will do later. That's all I could for now.

Playing the waiting game for the Wosty.
I've made all necessary repairs to the scales, and have them in oil, blade n collars have been cleaned n polished, and a new wedge will be made tonite while the scales soak another day before being put into dye.

Looks like it is coming along nicely Mike.

I think I have some Gorilla Epoxy here somewhere. Would that work as well for horn work where an end is broken off? Or do I need structural epoxy?

Does bog oak blend better than horn?

Originally Posted by JP5

Looks like it is coming along nicely Mike.

I think I have some Gorilla Epoxy here somewhere. Would that work as well for horn work where an end is broken off? Or do I need structural epoxy?

Does bog oak blend better than horn?

Im not much for monkeying around, the T-88 epoxy is the best epoxy I've ever used. Maybe not the clearest, but definitely the strongest. I actually glued the broken piece on before I put it under the heat lamp for flattening, didn't phase it a bit. And it gets stronger with time.

I'll probably get the T-88 to be safe. Hopefully using horn for a binder will still look dark enough mixed with the epoxy.

How do you achieve that finish you do on a lot of your blades? They are really glossy, but they appear to have lines/grain in them that looks great. I think you mentioned crocus paper once, which I've never used.

Take it to a near mirror finish, then go back down in grit to 800, then 800 krokus and Cr/Ox with oil, followed with red rogue, then Cr/Ox on a rag, and top it off with a metal polish for giggles.

I take you need some bog oak dust, eh.!

My next project. Another Imperial 20507. 13/16 full hollow. My favorite size and grind.

First two pics are how I got it. Won it for 10 bucks on eBay with 3 bucks for shipping. Not in too bad of shape besides the broken scales, a little hone ware on the toe and a little rust.


Next is after a basic clean-up and removal of scales. Then put on the 1K Green Brick to check bevel out. Didn't look too bad after some half strokes and circles. A couple small chips that came right out.


After another hour of rubbing with various sandpaper grits and polishes it's in clean, used condition. Not super polished, just showing a little age. Think I might stop here but I'll see how I feel about it tomorrow when I start looking at scale material. Going to copy the original scale shape. The wedge fell into three pieces when it came apart so that's out. Maybe a little more polishing on the blade.

Thanks Mike. Never used Cr/Ox, Krokus, or decent rouge before. What point do you start polishing in one direction? Back and forth or just from spine to edge? Kind of reminds me of the lines on some blades in like new condition, but they aren't as uniform and glossy.

Originally Posted by outback

I take you need some bog oak dust, eh.!

I don't know. Certainly wouldn't hurt. I used to think maybe horn would work better since it is the same material, but the results you've gotten with the bog oak are amazing. Wish I could see a side by side comparison or experiment with them. I may try using black pigment to make the horn darker if it doesn't look dark enough when making the "Bondo."
Do you use sandpaper or file to make the dust you use???
Seems like the silica from the sandpaper could contaminate it.