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Thread: What are you working on?

  1. #12941
    Captain ARAD. Voidmonster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sharptonn View Post
    I was thinking to make a mold with the bolsters and all on the original scales.
    Then, remove the bolsters, lay them in their perspective places in the mold, as well as the inlay, and pour it in on top.
    I assume that those pieces would be light enough, and the resin viscous enough, that the metal would need to be fixed in place somehow to not get pushed around a little by the pour, that's why I was thinking of doing the skin coat, then fixing them into that, then doing the pour.
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  3. #12942
    Razor Vulture sharptonn's Avatar
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    Yes! That would make certain all is flush. Some removal of material by sanding/buffing at the end would be necessary to finish the scales out. Pretty certain it was same back when?
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  4. #12943
    Senior Member blabbermouth Geezer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Voidmonster View Post
    ...snip...
    For newly made brass elements, they'll need to be deformed into the shape of the scales, which will probably require a really rigid negative AND positive mold, but I'll cross that bridge once I get onto the island sinking into the sea of celluloid that the existing bolsters are on.
    (Just to stretch a metaphor out until it breaks)
    If you make a male punch of steel, brass, or even aluminum,. You can drive the shim brass into a wooden block or a sheet of lead and trim it afterward. Simple and it does work.
    Good luck!
    ~Richard

    OPS. If you heat the brass shim stock to a cherry red and quench it in water, you will have a fully annealed piece of sheet to work with. Make the blank about twice the size of the bolster to be formed.....
    Last edited by Geezer; 04-20-2018 at 01:27 PM.
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  6. #12944
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    Quote Originally Posted by Geezer View Post
    If you make a male punch of steel, brass, or even aluminum,. You can drive the shim brass into a wooden block or a sheet of lead and trim it afterward. Simple and it does work.
    Good luck!
    ~Richard

    OPS. If you heat the brass shim stock to a cherry red and quench it in water, you will have a fully annealed piece of sheet to work with. Make the blank about twice the size of the bolster to be formed.....

    Last night I found this stuff, prolly sometime in the next couple of weeks I'm gonna buy some and see if that'll work for this purpose as well as making tools to form washers (I assume it's not strong enough to cut as well as form, but forming is the harder part of the equation for really fancy shaped washers).
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  7. #12945
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    I found most wanted Stright Razor POLONIA and I trying make new life for it.

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  8. #12946
    Skeptical Member Gasman's Avatar
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    Wenge Wood with a light colored wood wedge. Imperial Razor. Solid, silver collars, and silver pins.
    This is a dark wood that was very porous and it took a lot of work to fill the wood grains but I got it done. Could have been a little more glossy with a few more coats but I was just happy I got the grain filled.

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    It's just Sharpening, right?
    Jerry...

  9. #12947
    Senior Member blabbermouth RezDog's Avatar
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    PR100 and Gasman, nice scales.
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  11. #12948
    Razor Vulture sharptonn's Avatar
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    Very nice scales all-around! That blade, Jerry... It looks familiar!
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  13. #12949
    Skeptical Member Gasman's Avatar
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    I do believe it is the same one you sent me Tom. This puts me at 6 Imperial razors. I do like them. Too bad they are not all the same, I'd have the workings for a 7-day set. What the hell. I might do that anyways. Different blades and scales but all Imperials. A bit like me. I'm the Gasman but I'm all mixed up too. I still need to find the one with the bicycle on the blade. The one's I've seen were not worth buying.
    Hint, Hint, to the crew out there
    It's just Sharpening, right?
    Jerry...

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  15. #12950
    Razor Vulture sharptonn's Avatar
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    I might have your bike, Jerry.......You still got the crazy scales from that Imperial?
    I really need those!
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