Thread: What are you working on?

Originally Posted by sharptonn

Cleaning up a few nice old razors for the Movember auctions in the BST. A bit of rust in the pivot.
Some Maas and a flossie!

Attachment 297828

Holy Smokes that's an awesome idea. Why have you been keeping this floss thing a secret? This is right up there with the #10 artists pencil, as far as super ideas go. So cool!

Originally Posted by JP5

Just got my Sharptonn poly strop ironed out. Thanks again! Looking forward to finally trying out a fabric component (yes, this is my first lol).
One potential problem is this could lead to SAD and a desire to use compounds and sprays....

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Originally Posted by sharptonn

The poly firehose is pretty effective as-is, Josh! Give it a go before the leather a while.

Originally Posted by Gasman

Joshb that strop will feel pretty damn rough! But it does work well. I find i dont feel the need to do 50 laps on it like i do on flax. Flax will get 50, cotton 30 but that sucker get only 10. I could be wrong but it just feels like it works quicker.

That fabric is the most effective that I've ever used!

Jerry, for razor all I use is 600. Greasless will produce a lot of heat, so keep a cup of water handy and quench at the slightest heat, buff bare handed. For deep damage I hand sand, buffing on low grit compounds can destroy detail quickly.

I keep (3) 600 greaseless wheels in various state of load, full load, medium and very light. For most clean up I use the light load, and medium. From a light load a kind of light satin finish, I can go to a good Green Stainless and get a good shine. As I rotate the wheel as I reload the lightest wheel.

Greased compound, like most things comes in various qualities, not all red or green rouge is the same and produce the same results. Buy quality from know vendors for best results and experiment.

Start with a sewn wheel then finish on a loose wheel, you can use a 6 in loose wheel as you will not be using as much pressure or time on the wheel to bring out the color.

When you get a new wheel run the wheel rake on your wheel before applying compound. It will fluff the wheel, cut off all the lose threads. Floral pruning shears from the dollar store, work well and are inexpensive to replace. As you trim loaded wheels, they will dull shears, touch them up with a diamond file, a fine steel file or just replace them.

Lose threads prevent even loading and can damage the finish, cause scratching and catch on the piece, so trim as needed. Once broken in lose thread are not as common, quality wheels fray less, last longer and provide the best finish.

Castwell has a great buffing guide and progression chart, ( How to Buff and Polish).
From Green compound I go to White, Red or Blue compounds for bright color on loose wheels. You will have to experiment with your compounds and technique for best results.

Be safe, buff barehanded to feel the heat and get the best grip, keep your hands clean. Spray WD40 on a paper towel and wipe compound from your fingers and dry thoroughly on a clean dry paper towel for best grip.

Thanks Marty. This sounds about how ive gone about it. I do t use the buffer very much. Caswell it where i bought my compounds. I just need to pickup some more wheels. As i dont have enough for even one per. But i havnt used all compounds. I wont cross the colors as that. Would not be smart.

Definitely using the strop as is Sharptonn. I may make a leather piece to go on top eventually.

Originally Posted by Gasman

Joshb that strop will feel pretty damn rough! But it does work well. I find i dont feel the need to do 50 laps on it like i do on flax. Flax will get 50, cotton 30 but that sucker get only 10. I could be wrong but it just feels like it works quicker.

Yeah, it certainly feels rough! That edge should be dry and really clean after a few laps.

I'm trying to decide which of these 3 Wostenholms to start working on next.

The faux frameback on top would be the easiest. Just some wet/dry sandpaper to clean it up and repin it.

The big one in the middle has a large chunk taken out of the end of one scale. For practice, perhaps I could patch in a piece of another throw away set of scales I have sitting around? Not sure if the CA would hold it in place since it is near where it would need to be pinned.

Finally, the concave on bottom has some rough scales. That might be a good opportunity to try making some scales.

Decisions...

I always take the low hanging fruit first. Get the frame back back in action, then the rattler, then the wedge. You can do a little on each when you get to a stopping spot.

Originally Posted by sharptonn

Well, it is no miracle, but it ain't bad.
Packing polish in and rubbing the floss into it necessitates going out under running water with simple green and a toothbrush to clear it out. Moving the blade back and forth. Good way to cut yourself if you are not careful!
I just keep at it until nothing comes out. Takes lots of flossies.
TBH, I use my flossies on my teefs and wipe/rinse them and toss them into a bowl to use like this.
Recycle!

I have one of those Waterpic tooth power washers. I wonder if that might be a useful tool for flushing out the pivot. Suppose I could put detergent in it, but then I’d have to buy another one for my teeth.

Originally Posted by DZEC

I have one of those Waterpic tooth power washers. I wonder if that might be a useful tool for flushing out the pivot. Suppose I could put detergent in it, but then I’d have to buy another one for my teeth.

I wouldn't bother using any soap in the WaterPik just some Dawn on the toothbrush followed by the forced water/I would buy a new Pik dedicated to that use/Also be sure to cover the reservoir to keep crap out.

Just my thoughts.

Iam working on this bag....once I start ,I can’t stop !