Thread: What are you working on?

Originally Posted by JellyJar

Between some of my less razor specific projects I decided to go back and correct a flaw on a W&B I'd previously "finished". When I got this, the blade closed to the right, when I "finished" it, it closed to the right, but I really just wanted to try the shave so I left it. I recalled I had used a 1/16" not a 5/64" bit to re-drill the tang hole and thought that might have been the culprit. Nope still closed right bad enough to hit the scales if you didn't guide it closed. Tried again with some more aggressive directional pinning, nope still the same. I'd been cutting my pin stock to approximate length before pinning and one night I decided to pre-peen one end of my long stock so I could just cut to length after assembly. Went to pin it up using the long pin stock and noticed this:

Attachment 306757

The pivot holes weren't aligned. Maybe I messed up the alignment when sanding the scales? I hadn't noticed it before with the shorter micro bolts and pin stock. So I filled the hole and re-drilled, still a bit to the right but the blade doesn't need guiding and doesn't hit the scale.

Attachment 306759

Still not perfect, but much happier with it now and learned a little.

Glad to know I'm not the only one who makes mistakes I later have to go back and correct (usually involving pinning). Live and learn.

I have corrected some goofed up holes by putting a turning drill bit in and then torquing the scales to elongate the two holes in opposite directions. A little Vaseline on the pin and then fill the slop with CA, with tape on one side to keep it from running away. Once it is set, flip it and do the other side. The CA won’t stick to the pin and it corrects fairly easily. If you collars are the right size it will cover the error.

Rezdog speaks the truth.
Something to think about is the bottom pin may be bent causing this.
Looks like the pin-hole and the top are both low on the right side of the photo.

Originally Posted by JellyJar

Went to pin it up using the long pin stock and noticed this:

Yeah, do a few hundred old Sheffields with horn scales & see how many of the holes actually line up

With the size of the pivot holes they used to punch there's a lot of wiggle room.

I also cut most my pin stock down to useable size. But I keep one about 6 inches and its put in a special place so it doesn't get bent. I use it just for this reason. Testing. I'm still fixing off-set holes from when I first got into this hobby. Thanks for the info Rez. A good one to know.

I’m pretty sure that one originally came from Richard.

A little something I put together tonight. Geneva Cutlery. The blade and scales were/are a little worn but they fit so nicely together I just had to pin them up.



A very close fit!

Originally Posted by RezDog

I have corrected some goofed up holes by putting a turning drill bit in and then torquing the scales to elongate the two holes in opposite directions. A little Vaseline on the pin and then fill the slop with CA, with tape on one side to keep it from running away. Once it is set, flip it and do the other side. The CA won’t stick to the pin and it corrects fairly easily. If you collars are the right size it will cover the error.

Good tip, take half out of each side. I'll try that in the future.

Had some time while some finish was drying so I pulled out my Frederick to see if it would take a bevel. Started with two layers of tape and went to three as the bevel was looking quite wide. Some of the smaller chips disappeared, but I was noticing a fair amount of pitting at the edge and then a crack showed it's ugly little face at the toe.



I think this could be saved with a bit of shortening into a spanish point but the pits have me most concerned there's several areas similar to the red arrow farthest from the tip. I'm not in a hurry on this one so maybe some high angle honing? Bread-knife? Just keep going with three layers and see where I wind up? I'm not going to mess with the tip until I know the edge is usable. Am I wasting my time? Appreciate your advice.

I have seen some amazing things with regrinds, but few people have the ability to get that much off, and keep a blade straight doing it by hand. It looks like it is beyond what I can do by hand. You may want to save that one for if you get a belt grinder or give it to someone for them to use for regrinding practice. It looks like there is a lot of ugliness and it looks like it goes deep. It may not even make a regrind. I have not reground that many blades so I am no expert.