Thread: What are you working on?

Originally Posted by RezDog

What does the stamp say. It looks fairly old. 1830-50 ish

It's a George wostenholm I think it's just heavily modified and not original. When I got it the scales where too big so I shortened them. And the blade is bowed.

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Originally Posted by miha

..just finished,.. took me a while,.. it took me a while to make the connections as they have to be (angled, penetrating the wood but not going through on the base, and going through on top,... the main problem is I did this on my balcony, with a dremel, so it was a challenge for me (I definetely need a router) ). the narrower holes asre for DEs, and the wider for striaghts
Wallnut wood, finished with oil..

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Miha, when are you planning to take orders [emoji482]

Great work

Originally Posted by miha

..just finished,.. took me a while,.. it took me a while to make the connections as they have to be (angled, penetrating the wood but not going through on the base, and going through on top,... the main problem is I did this on my balcony, with a dremel, so it was a challenge for me (I definetely need a router) ). the narrower holes asre for DEs, and the wider for striaghts
Wallnut wood, finished with oil..

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Black Walnut and drilling on the balcony with a dremmel is a huge thing. That could not have been easy. Very nice work.

Originally Posted by aaron1234

It's a George wostenholm I think it's just heavily modified and not original. When I got it the scales where too big so I shortened them. And the blade is bowed.

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No it could be all original blade. No marks showing fresh steel modification. Bowed?? Ask Harrywally about bowed blades their his specialty. Scales anything will do in a pinch. I have gotten scales that are made of popcicle sticks blended into full wood scales. Bowed blades happened more often back in the era.

Originally Posted by miha

..just finished,.. took me a while,.. it took me a while to make the connections as they have to be (angled, penetrating the wood but not going through on the base, and going through on top,... the main problem is I did this on my balcony, with a dremel, so it was a challenge for me (I definetely need a router) ). the narrower holes asre for DEs, and the wider for striaghts
Wallnut wood, finished with oil..

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Very nice, verrry nice. Just love it when a plan comes together for someone.
Serves the purpose of storage, and drying all in one.
I see you need one more straight, to fill the rack. Something special I presume?

Originally Posted by ultrasoundguy2003

No it could be all original blade. No marks showing fresh steel modification. Bowed?? Ask Harrywally about bowed blades their his specialty. Scales anything will do in a pinch. I have gotten scales that are made of popcicle sticks blended into full wood scales. Bowed blades happened more often back in the era.

I just dipped the scales in boiling water and shaped as needed before fully pining. Not perfect but good enough. I thought about polishing it completely but decided not to.

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Originally Posted by ultrasoundguy2003

No it could be all original blade. No marks showing fresh steel modification. Bowed?? Ask Harrywally about bowed blades their his specialty. Scales anything will do in a pinch. I have gotten scales that are made of popcicle sticks blended into full wood scales. Bowed blades happened more often back in the era.

Also it looked like it once had a barbers notch. Hopefully these pictures will show you everything I'm talking about.

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Hone it and run with it. Looks about right from here. I see then bend. Nice fit to these scales. How are you at honing?
I believe the skinny hone is the way to go with the bend. You angle to the dangle of the bow. Go slow and it will make sense. Andrew you want to add any pertinent tips?
see post this thread #2855

Originally Posted by ultrasoundguy2003

Hone it and run with it. Looks about right from here. I see then bend. Nice fit to these scales. How are you at honing?
I believe the skinny hone is the way to go with the bend. You angle to the dangle of the bow. Go slow and it will make sense. Andrew you want to add any pertinent tips?

Thank you. I'm not bad but I'm not perfect. I put scratches in the blade a few times.

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Yup, you angle to the dangle.

I'm not a honing expert by any means, but I've put some fairly good edges on warped blades.

With the concave side of the warp on the hone, you want to roll down with your hand. With the convex side on the hone, you want to roll up with your hand. Hope that makes sense.... if you have any major problems honing it, head over to the honing section of the forum and do some reading. If that doesn't help, post the blade and the problems and the true pros will guide you better than I can.