Quote:
Originally Posted by ultrasoundguy2003
Really cool Jonathan! It isn't everyday you see a C-Mon Filly. That should come out gorgeous!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ultrasoundguy2003
Really cool Jonathan! It isn't everyday you see a C-Mon Filly. That should come out gorgeous!
That came up unbelievably well, I am seeing razors rescued on here that I would have thought finished. Great jobQuote:
Originally Posted by ultrasoundguy2003
Boy... I'd like to find one of those in the wild [emoji6]Quote:
Originally Posted by ultrasoundguy2003
Looking great Jonathan! Can't wait to see it completedQuote:
Originally Posted by ultrasoundguy2003
She's a damn good shaver for sureQuote:
Originally Posted by Benz
Honed her up yesterday, gave it a go today.
All right. That's what I like to hear.:rock:
Good ol Krusious Bro. Blade
Reminiscent of shaving with a Henckels, I mght say.
Careful what you bring home
Sad Anny had pups!
Attachment 228629
~Richard
PS Very nice work on the razors. Lovely save!
After looking at some of outback's and MikeB52's work I decided I should do something last night. So I dug DEEP in a drawer and pulled out an old Jacob Wiss 5/8 square point that had been languishing there. No beauty queen for sure with its plain black scales but a nice, rust free, no pits blade so I decided to hone it up. Now I don't know what happened last night but things sure went right. Maybe the sun, moon, and planets were lined up because I got one of the best edges on the coticule in my 45 years of honing. I took it for a test shave tonight after my shower and the thing just glided over my face like an Olympic figure skater. The shave was incredible......better than my best barber shave. Understand, I keep all of my rotation extra sharp but this thing even beat my beloved Wade and Butcher.....I can't quit faceturbating. Man, I wish I had a date with that cute divorcee tonight.
+1 to Benz. MikeB52 and Outback got me to do the same. Thanks to you guys for motivating me this winter.
Faceturbating is that a real word?? I know what it means, that is funny stuff.
I picked up the word from outback's posts. Faceturbating happens when you get an off the charts shave. My face feels like it did before I got pubed.
I know what it means. I didnt know it had a term.
I do it still. I no of no greater joy than watching a newbie post first BBS shave.
Yes outback may have coined a term. I will use it for life.
Its beem used through the forum many times. I laughed my head off the first time I heard someone use it. [emoji38]Quote:
Originally Posted by ultrasoundguy2003
I scooped up an old straight razor at a junk shop on the weekend. Blade seems to be in OK condition so I thought before I sent it to somebody to get honed I'd make some new scales for it, just for something to do. I got my hands on a bunch of 3mm aluminium at work, so I decided to use some of that. I've got a pinning kit coming in the mail soon.
The pinning kit is nickel silver, but has brass washers to go in between the blade and scales. Apparently brass and aluminium don't love each other, so could I use a plastic washer instead? I assume it should be something softer than the stainless steel so it doesn't chew the blade and/or scales up.
Pics of razor when I got and and disassembledProject SR - Album on Imgur
What is wrong with the scales. Don't throw them out. Same them, you never know when you will need a set.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bungle
Man... Those look cool .
Personally I'd leave them on. Is there something wrong with them?
Nice haul! A thin nylon or mylar washer would work well. Mylar is usually used as a drafting film. Neither will wear very much so be careful not to make the pinning too tight.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bungle
Aluminum, from my experiences, is a nice material. Howsomever it will show every deep sanding scratch til you have worked reversed diagonally up the grits to a polishing grit. then you may have to drop back a few levels to get the scratches that show up then.
Attachment 228813
If you look carefully this was at 2K grit. I had to drop back a couple levels to get the barely visible scratches out.
Have fun and don't get discouraged by having to go back a few grits more than once. I have worked aluminum and other soft metals most of my 50 year career and...I still had to go back more than once. The I could go and carefully polish with a new buff and fresh polish. By hand with an automobile polish, or Filtz, or Simichrompoly will do also and less chance of showing polishing feathers like on the right lower part of the top one above.
These are hammer formed but your solid ones will finish the same way.
Have fun!
~Richard
Quote:
Originally Posted by RezDog
+1 on the scales. Are they pressed horn or something or are they something else like bakelite or celluloid? They almost look like pressed horn but I'm not sure............Quote:
Originally Posted by outback
They are way too cool to throw away. I'd use 'em on the same blade.
Cleaning up a Genco gold seal. Then sending it out to be replated.
Attachment 228815Attachment 228816Attachment 228817Attachment 228818Attachment 228819
Richard... Did you seal them with anything to prevent oxidation?Quote:
Originally Posted by Geezer
Mike
Looks like a Genco Gold Seal Mike & in great shape.Quote:
Originally Posted by outback
Auto polish/wax or Renwax usually are enough. They will get a bit oxidized over time. but it usually is a soft hazy coat that looks good and protects the surface. They can be blackened if exposed to sulfur or some other oxidants.Quote:
Originally Posted by outback
~Richard
Hammered forms over what Richard? And what gauge were you using?
Beautiful skins sir!!
:chapeau
She's like brand new Steve.Quote:
Originally Posted by engine46
Looks to have only been honed once in it's life. There was just a touch of light rust in the pivot area of the tang, and some staining on the back side of the blade near the heal. Should clean up with metal polish and a rag.
Attachment 228826
It sure looks that way Mike. Didn't those have gold wash on the tang area? Sure looks like that one did all the way near the stabilizer.Quote:
Originally Posted by outback
Sure did. Then in runs up the spine and over the end of the toe.
Those are some very nice scales Richard. I have 3 sets in aluminum. One is still on a razor, an old Shumate from Austin, TX. I want to take 'em off & put them in some originals. I got a really mint looking one awhile back & when I got it, I could barely see a hairline crack in the blade but it couldn't be seen in the pics on eBay. Rather than send it back, the seller & I agreed on a partial refund which was acceptable because I also got the original coffin with it. It was such a disappointment because the blade, aside from the crack was beautiful & now the one I do have is also a nice blade but not as wide. The seller felt bad & I told him not to feel bad about it, that I understood. We were both happy with the outcome though which is the main thing.Quote:
Originally Posted by Geezer
The one on top in the black scales has the cracked blade. It's very hard to see the crack but it's there on both sides directly under the "A". The one below it in the aluminum scales has the good blade.
Attachment 228829
Attachment 228830
They're not horn, they're an opaque black plastic with gold streaks on top. I'm keeping them safe in case I want to put them back on. Today I made a mock up out of 3mm MDF to see what needs to be changed, I added extra size down the bottom as I wasn't sure how much I'd need to cover the blade with the thicker wedge piece.Quote:
Originally Posted by engine46
I'll take some of the bottom off tomorrow and use that as the template for the aluminium jobby.
http://imgur.com/gpeEZMW.jpg
Been playing around with acid etching to Create contrast, dark blade mirror polished everywhere else. I am really not liking the results, not to worry. I can Always sand and polish out, l'll see what it's like when scales are on.
Attachment 228837Attachment 228838
That is called a cold shut in Forging Speak. Just leave it as is. I have a Robeson with one myself. It's a great razor! You I Barber is cool!
I think if you tried that in reverse you'd have a winner.Quote:
Originally Posted by williamc
I do think your onto something. If I can't live with it as is, I think I'll try that.Quote:
Originally Posted by Marshal
[QUOTE=outback;1603543]Cleaning up a Genco gold seal. Then sending it out to be replated.
Mike as you skill set shows. Think about Caswell plating. They have a plating kit for gold only. Dont get the Mega kit like I did. You will get enough solution to do 15+ razors. its wipe on wipe off. 4 oz Plug N' PlateŽ Gold Solution (4 month shelf life) - Gold Brush Plating - Gold Plating Kits - Plating Kits - Caswell Inc
It will wear off over time.Post plating I went off the reservation and dipped mine in spar-urethane and its holding up great 1 year later.
Good question!Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeB52
Free hammer formed from the inside and onto a hardwood block.
Attachment 228848
Hammering increases the hardness of the surface. Too much will cause the metal to break.
I darken the surface with a dirty flame from a candle, then i use a torch, Bernzo or equivalent, to heat the metal till the black disappears. Then drop it into water. The metal is again quite soft and malleable. The process is called annealing. It works for silver, German Silver and any brass also.
~Richard
The Gauge was 0.04 / 1mm...Sorry
Ok I need a sanding lesson. Looked good in person. All have been sanded and buffed.
Now back to sanding. Work is slow going. Buffing because it got to 50F today in Michigan.No inside shop.
Attachment 228866Attachment 228862Attachment 228863Attachment 228864Attachment 228865
Finished my first set of scales last night.
I used mahogany, which i epoxied to a white liner. I basically outlined the old GD scales and then squared them at the ends.
Attachment 228914
Stained with light button lac and then buffed with some finishing paste (a few times during the process). Apologies for the flash washout.
Attachment 228916
The wedge is horn and i sealed the inside liners with a few coats of CA, which i then sanded down. The CA made it a little tricky to fit the wedge but i spent some time with the dremel to help shape it. Oh the smell of burning hair... I am now very happy i made a vent, and bought a respirator. I also had to sand the insides a bit to shift the blade. I used one washer as well on the front side. The tang and blade are very misaligned.
Attachment 228917
The Gold Dollar Upgrade.. She is a little wide in the tukhus but fits nicely in the hand.
Attachment 228915
I will thank everyone now for the many, many articles and threads i have found on the site which i used to help me in this process. Almost any answer can be found, or gotten new due to the members of this forum. I also have to give credit to Charlie Lewis for his youtube vids, which are very helpful and basically defined the process i used, and the Bill Ellis's CD is gold for restoration info. Huzzah gents and thank you!!
:beer1::beer1::beer1:
Not bad!
Did a set in African mahogany. Found it to be a little soft, and smashed the collars trying to get the pivot tight enough.
Put it in the re do box.
I see why the liners, the grain is running off at a shear. It actually works very well. They look pretty good. It looks like a spacer and not a wedge. How is the tension tat the pivot throughout the range of movement? With a tapered tang it is hard to get that right without a wedge.
