Thread: 51 MG restoration.

94 octane is our highest octane available up here and I only use it in turbo cars or high compression engines personally.
Better pop, hotter combustion and cleaner burn all make a difference in forced induction vehicles in realized HP, but in everyday cars, not at all.
My mg will run on diluted jack Daniel’s probably. So 87 octane will almost be like high test for her.

87, the cheapest stuff is what my car takes according to the book and the sticker in the gas flap so although it's still stupid expensive these days. it could be worse if it had a taste for the good stuff.

My lawnmower likes the good stuff but at least a couple of gallons is enough to keep it going for the summer.

I had to edit my previous post. 85 is our lowest.

Anyway, I agree with you, Mike. You don't NEED to run the high stuff if your car runs fine on the lower grades. I bet 80% of the vehicles made in the last 20 years don't need it. But the manufacturer says it does. If you don't get spark knock when you put your foot in it up a hill, the regular stuff is just fine.

I don't know if it was the gas or not, a lot of years ago, maybe 35, when my cars started knocking or pinking I just got the strobe light out.

Been a busy week or so around here with must do seasonal things so haven’t been able to progress much in the car.
Did however get the shifter mod dialed in and the interior heat/sound barrier all installed.


Won’t cut down the original shifter till after I driver her,, just in case..
Also ran the Bluetooth receiver speaker wiring and heater stuff underneath so it won’t be noticeable once the carpet is installed.


I’ve got better heat shield under the passenger floor for the exhaust, but figured I want this interior to be as well insulated from the outside as I can make her.
Also received a 1-6 lb adjustable fuel regulator to dial in the carbs and the recommended lube for the 4 spd gearbox.

Will not be hitting my May 24 goal to have her running, but am moving along at a pace that should still have her running this season.
Cheers.

Looking good my friend.

RED LINE--That's the fluids that I run in my bike--Motor--Tranny--and the Primary! Good Choice!

I was kindov hoping to see the extension bar from about the same point on the rear shifter as is on the front.

You have a super-short throw I think. So short it takes some grunt to shift it.

I would take some flat bar bits and a vintage Pontiac tire-tool and keep the floor lower to boot....Me


OH! Tapering the ID of the parking brake handle and sliding it back where you want it would be easy for you on your lathe. 1 1/2-two inches?
Get it where you like it and cut the rest accordingly.


sorry!

No sorry needed buddy.
You are right about the throw, very short, but I like that and no grunting, but I haven’t driven it yet.
I couldn’t go from the same point on the two levers since I dropped the new one lower to clear the dash extension. I accepted and wanted the tighter throw,
Not sure what you mean floor lower to boot?
And as far as the ebrake goes, not a bad idea at all, if I need to move it back.
It’s in the same spot it was originally and I liked it there if I recall correctly. Funny brake that’s really a drift brake. Doesn’t lock as you lift it, only after you hit the end button does it engage, then you have to lift it slightly to relays the button and drop it. Took some getting used to.
Always appreciate the ideas and critique Tom, not the sensitive sort like tc at all..


just checking if tc still reads this thread, hehe.

Picture a shaft/tube straight back from the top shifter, dropping down and back straight to the new shifter at or near the same point

Would mirror the original shifter and keep the hump lower. Higher on the rear shaft, shorter the throw.
This ain't no modern gearbox. Some leverage may be nice?

Ahh, now I get you.. drill a lower hole on the rear, new shifter and put a drop in the linkage..
Something to consider.
Thx Tom..