Thread: 51 MG restoration.

Well, I was thinking about it too as it’s all new to me, and reading the manuals a bit.
It looks like the plumbing is correct. And so I looked on google for some images of the Girling can.


The Brit’s seemed to keep the clutch live longer.
I can only guess that the idea could be to allow you to shift down to second or first and use the e brake to stop if you had a broken brake line?

Was hoping the delivery man would make me smile but parts are still a ways away. So won’t be a lot of activity this weekend on her. Maybe get some pretreatment on the brake hardware done.
Still too damn cold to do much else..
Cheers men and thanks for the input. Appreciate the help and sharing the learning.

Jeeze! Didya restore the can already?
Makes sense on the Brits.

Nope, I found those images on the net. I did manage to get mine open though.
Spotless inside surprisingly. The fluid currently in the reservoir is almost clear, with no stainage or rust on the cans interior.
Can get authentic reproductions for the original can, if I feel like it one day.

Watching the tracking number and it looks like my package went back to California.
Made it all the way to Canada on the 4th, but now looks like it’s back in CA.
Weird. No notes about duty being due or issues with the border.

Gotta luv the Canada Post when dealing with things from the USA...

~Richard

Well, some cans of brake parts cleaner with the straw and blowing in the can, metal lines followed with compressed air to get all the old fluid gone is necessary before installing new cylinders, hoses, and flushing/bleeding with the dot 4.

Carb tear down showed nasty carbon build up, plugged inlet screens, and coated needles and jets. Simply a clean up day as I have no new parts yet.

As per spec, a 7/16 drill bit should just fit in the cap between the float arm and the lid to set the fuel level.
Mine are both quite off that measure.


This setting dictates where the fuel sits in the bowl, and therefore the jet, and has a pretty large relationship with needle position. Venturi suction wicks the fuel out of the jet at idle and the fuel level should ‘rest’ about 1/4” below the top of the jet when installed.
I hesitate to adjust them thinking maybe the angle of the tr3 engine in the MG body is different and the float positions were changed to accommodate the swap.
I may just record the difference and go back to design spec and see what happens. Wondering will drive me nuts if I don’t I figure anyway..

Originally Posted by MikeB52

Carb tear down showed nasty carbon build up, plugged inlet screens, and coated needles and jets. Simply a clean up day as I have no new parts yet.

As per spec, a 7/16 drill bit should just fit in the cap between the float arm and the lid to set the fuel level.
Mine are both quite off that measure.


This setting dictates where the fuel sits in the bowl, and therefore the jet, and has a pretty large relationship with needle position. Venturi suction wicks the fuel out of the jet at idle and the fuel level should ‘rest’ about 1/4” below the top of the jet when installed.
I hesitate to adjust them thinking maybe the angle of the tr3 engine in the MG body is different and the float positions were changed to accommodate the swap.
I may just record the difference and go back to design spec and see what happens. Wondering will drive me nuts if I don’t I figure anyway..

The drill bit, I believe, should be tested at the peak of the curved part of the arm. Where you are showing it the needle valve will never touch its' seat to shut of the fuel flow as needed.

SU carbs......

Originally Posted by sharptonn

SU carbs......

I actually like SUs, they are simple but different from what we (Americans) are used to. Once you get them dialed in it's smooth driving.

You are correct, of course.
The later emissions-laden ones always gave me fits.