Thread: 51 MG restoration.

Originally Posted by MikeB52

Decided a good use for bad gas is cleaning up parts.
Went at my rear hydraulic dampeners last night.
Spray on, scrub off.
Attachment 287730
Attachment 287731
Came up clean enough to open.
Levels were good and fluid looked hydraulicy so for now, just closed er up and on to the fronts.
Cheers men.

Those things actually work...some.
I put some rear ones from a Morris Minor on all 4 corners of my Model A.
Seems I got the oil from Victoria British

Yup Jerry, these were the hydraulics that work with the leafs in the back. Hydraulic dampening in either direction radially as transferred from the axle.
Fronts are similar but have independent springs. The TD was the first MG offered with independent front suspension actually. Leading edge for its time really.

The fronts on the Morris Minor were set-up like yours. As the control-arm pivot.
A buddy had 4 of the rear ones and I snagged them. Model A's had friction shocks which were almost nothing. I used Model A arms and links. The old-timers scratch their heads as they see them!
You can disconnect them and push up and down to see if they are working.

Very ingenious solution Tom. Looks very clean and functional!
Nice work..

Originally Posted by MikeB52

Very ingenious solution Tom. Looks very clean and functional!
Nice work..

I thought they were not much until someone brought in an A with no shocks at all to get running... First bump and the back tires came off the ground!
I thought more of them since then!

My fronts cleaned up quite nicely as well. Love the extensive use of brass components throughout.

Now just waiting on brake cylinders. Then I’m good to flush, fill, grease, and test drive.
Hoses look all recently replaced, as do wheel bearings and brake shoes.

As tom predicted, I have been running the car almost daily in the shop while I wait for my brake cylinders.
Noticed an oil stain below the tranny output shaft so took a closer look.

A British car with a rear seal leak?? How rare.

Good news, is it looks like clean fluid, so the tranny hasn’t run dry.
Bad news, never taken a rear shaft out of a car like this so not sure if it can be done in place or tranny needs to be pulled.
It looks like the rear seal can be removed externally, slipped over the output shaft, if I can remove the drive shaft u joint mounting flange from the tranny output shaft.
Soaked everything with mouse milk penetrant while I do a little research on the construction of the tranny.
Then to decide if it’s a first priority, or can wait till next winters deeper tear down..
Hate the idea of stains under the car. Such a detractor from an old cars charm. Plus it restricts where I will park it till it’s fixed..
Finally above 5 degrees in Orangeville. A good day for garage projects.
Cheers.

If you have the front end jacked-up higher, that output shaft seal will leak.
The fact that it does leak means the tranny is pretty full.
Likely won't leak if the car is level. Might put that off?
Anything attempted begets 6 more jobs!

She is nose high Tommy, dang astute suggestion brudder. Had not thought of that.
Thanks man, love this forums depth of skill sets..
Wrenches put down, rag and cleaner picked up again..

Originally Posted by MikeB52

As tom predicted, I have been running the car almost daily in the shop while I wait for my brake cylinders.
Noticed an oil stain below the tranny output shaft so took a closer look.

A British car with a rear seal leak?? How rare.

Good news, is it looks like clean fluid, so the tranny hasn’t run dry.
Bad news, never taken a rear shaft out of a car like this so not sure if it can be done in place or tranny needs to be pulled.
It looks like the rear seal can be removed externally, slipped over the output shaft, if I can remove the drive shaft u joint mounting flange from the tranny output shaft.
Soaked everything with mouse milk penetrant while I do a little research on the construction of the tranny.
Then to decide if it’s a first priority, or can wait till next winters deeper tear down..
Hate the idea of stains under the car. Such a detractor from an old cars charm. Plus it restricts where I will park it till it’s fixed..
Finally above 5 degrees in Orangeville. A good day for garage projects.
Cheers.

If you choose to replace the seal so it won't leak even on an incline, remove the drive shaft. After the drive shaft is out you should see a nut in the recess on the output shaft. Remove that nut, pull the output shaft out (it is splined) then you can use a hooked tool to remove the old seal. Carefully tap a new seal in using something to cover the whole diameter of the seal so it isn't damaged then reinstall the removed parts.