Thread: 51 MG restoration.

OK...
Only cause you asked Kris, lol..

Originally Posted by Cangooner

Hey Mike, when you finish this, can you buy another old car please? I'm really going to miss these regular updates when you've got her back on the road.

I 'think' that you just said the Four Words that Mike's lovely bride never wants to hear ever again

Looking good!

True dat Roy.
Ruthy will need a bit of time riding shotgun with the wind messing up her do before I suggest something maybe a bit more air tight next time. Something with built in windows maybe..
A mid 60s Neunelfer perhaps..
Hehe.

Latest shipment arrived with the mgb brake hoses and mounts, so I have been test fitting stuff and am cutting brake lines.
Seems I need yet two more fittings though. Mgb used male ended hoses with a 3/8-24 sae thread, whereas the TD was 3/8-20 sae with a female receiver at the one end of the hose that connects to the rigid lines.
Upon this discovery I went looking at my fittings all around and the rear ends drums are also 3/8 24. Makes sense since the rear end came out of an mga.
So as long as I’m careful and don’t get any of the fittings mixed up, it’ll all work, my cars going to be a mix of both thread pitches. But I will be eliminating 2 extra Ts that were added, probably because of the way the brakes evolved.
Good thing I decided to replace it all as it too was kinda Mickey Mouse..

My local machine shop did a sweet job on the hubs, checked fit, on hub and rim, and very tight in a good way!
Another item off the still to do list!

These spline drive wheel nuts were the ticket! Very little extra clearance needed.

I"m glad you are blessed with a competent machine shop. They can be hard to find.

Got all the hard brake lines plumbed in.
Double flare, 3/16 line.
For this not familiar, double flare is a pain, and a two part flaring process. But it provides a very good hydraulic seal.
Had to hand chamfer every tube end prior to flaring to ensure there was no splitting or rolling of the edge as the flare is made.

Then you clamp it up in the jig and set your depth to a specific height to start the flare. Then you insert the preflare former and clamp it tight.

Remove the preformer and retighten with the cone to set the final flare angle of 45’.



Still need to install the clamps but those can wait till the end.
On to the engine installation!

Copper-Nickel tubing

Cunifer line, but yup, copper nickel blend..