Thread: Fastest progression possible

Originally Posted by Memorael

At least someone is having fun and trying new things rather than just saying no.

Gee ya'd think in 3 decades of honing razors I would have thought to try this DMT thing. (Insert sarcasm smiley)

I shave tested:

The blade was very sharp but a bit harsh and had a bit of micro chipping. If I wasn't doing this as a test I would have cornered the edge and gone back to a slurried Coticule for more work. The biggest surprise was I could even go from a 325 to Coticule and get an almost exceptable edge.

My DMT is eight years old and has lapped a lot hones (no Arks) so it might be a bit more gentle than a new one, my Coticule will give wicked edges and is on the hard side of the spectrum.

It was an interesting experiment, the razor was a "put in a box until later" razor and with a bit more work it will be really usable

Originally Posted by onimaru55

Gee ya'd think in 3 decades of honing razors I would have thought to try this DMT thing. (Insert sarcasm smiley)

did you like the shave?

Following the description of the process Memorael posted.
I got a GD and did 30 laps on Atoma 400 .
After the Atoma I used thick slurry on coticule with dilution to water
Finally I did finish on water only.
The whole process took 23 minutes and a change.

Here is what the bevels look like. Test shave tomorrow.

Is that first picture straight off the diamond hone? I don't have that much magnification but that's about what mine looked like off of the DMT C

Originally Posted by mainaman

Following the description of the process Memorael posted.
I got a GD and did 30 laps on Atoma 400 .
After the Atoma I used thick slurry on coticule with dilution to water
Finally I did finish on water only.
The whole process took 23 minutes and a change.

Here is what the bevels look like. Test shave tomorrow.

Originally Posted by Memorael

did you like the shave?

Not with only 15 minutes of honing.

You do realise that some crumbly old sheffields will never take a bevel on a dmt ? They will always look like they got exploded with C4.
Other steels will still get uneccesarily abraded & then you've got more than 15 mins to optimise the edge.

I think you & I have differing views on "shave ready". So be it.

Originally Posted by rodb

Is that first picture straight off the diamond hone? I don't have that much magnification but that's about what mine looked like off of the DMT C

Yes the pic is off the Atoma 400.

Originally Posted by mainaman

Just for the fun of it I'll do Mamorael's progression. I'll use Atoma 400 as it is a lot faster than the 320 DMT I have (very worn out).
I'll post how it compares to the other progression I have used to hone a GD
I am sure the edges will not be comparable . I'll be posting pics of the progress.

A bit off topic, but I am using a well worn out atoma 400 for edge restoration. I tried it, and although most people say "it leaves a far too harsh edge" the metal removed was pretty much the same with that from the suehiro 320 (the stone is a lot finer than actual grit, the scratches are more like 600 grit and finer than both sigma 400 & Chocera 400) only, the tape lasted 10x more time, there was no slurry that could really cut deep and the scratches were acceptable, no more metal than the necessary for restoring a damaged bevel was removed, of course with caution, and generally it takes less than a few minutes. Since then, I'm using the atoma for all the pre 1k work. But I do agree that it's far too coarse to be called a bevel setter.

Originally Posted by Vasilis

A bit off topic, but I am using a well worn out atoma 400 for edge restoration. I tried it, and although most people say "it leaves a far too harsh edge" the metal removed was pretty much the same with that from the suehiro 320 (the stone is a lot finer than actual grit, the scratches are more like 600 grit and finer than both sigma 400 & Chocera 400) only, the tape lasted 10x more time, there was no slurry that could really cut deep and the scratches were acceptable, no more metal than the necessary for restoring a damaged bevel was removed, of course with caution, and generally it takes less than a few minutes. Since then, I'm using the atoma for all the pre 1k work. But I do agree that it's far too coarse to be called a bevel setter.

I use the Atoma for lapping and very rarely for for repair work. With GDs before the bevel is set one has to do repair work first and the Atoma saves tons of time. For other razors that need heavy work I use Sigma 400 stone that works well enough for me.

Originally Posted by mainaman

Following the description of the process Memorael posted.
I got a GD and did 30 laps on Atoma 400 .
After the Atoma I used thick slurry on coticule with dilution to water
Finally I did finish on water only.
The whole process took 23 minutes and a change.

Here is what the bevels look like. Test shave tomorrow.

Started shaving with the razor this morning. The WTG pass felt pretty good, what folks call "close and comfortable" .
As I started the XTG pass the edge was a tad tugging, that was to be expected as I do not believe it was sharp enough off the coticule. I did not expect much sharpness looking at the pictures of the edge. I honed on the Coticule quite a bit. I did about 8 minutes with slurry to water, then another 5 minutes on water . After I inspected the edge I did another 250 laps on the coticule until the edge stopped refining.

I'll redo the same razor with my progression Atoma 400, 1k Chosera, Ohira Suita, Nakayama Kiita, 20k Suehiro. I'll time the process and will post pics as I go. I already shaved with another GD done this way, the edge is as good as it will get on those razors and siginificantly sharper and smoother than the Atoma - Coticule set up.