Thread: Hone of the Day

Touch up on my 6/8 Ralf Aust

Started on the Thuringian by doing 5 passes with circular motion followed by 10 passes doing X strokes with water only. Moved to balsa wood strop with crox for 40 passes and finished with 100 passes on leather.

I've already shaved with the razor and I'm really happy with the result.

Originally Posted by sharptonn

He's a NUT! What he is!

Wait! What's that I hear? 'Cling-a ching-ding-ding!'

Oh! the wind just picked-up!

You got way more patience than I, Mike!

TBH, Tom. I can't help myself. I'm a technician/ mechanic I find the root cause, and fix it. That's why I like challenges, it keeps me Thinkin, and trying new things.

It seems to make logical sense to me. The spots with the highest wear receive the most tape, you've got less and less tape as the wear evens out, as needed.

I might see if I can find a practice blade to try this on.

Also, those poor unused calipers might finally find a use.

I mostly buy up 100 year old+ Sheffield blades. They are tricky at times- I tend to think that the ones I struggle with are probably just because I don't have the knowledge on how to approach them yet. However, I'm learning something new every time one of these topics comes up.

Outback, I see you mentioned this working for when the wear is even on both sides.

Some of the blades I see are warped (or have other issues) such that the wear doesn't match on both sides.

Could you still use this method by finding the worn/low spots on each side and only sticking the tape over the spots that need it on that particular side?

Since the tape wouldn't be going over the top of the spine to the other side in this case I'm not sure how well it would stick, but that last piece that goes over the entire length of the spine and covers both sides might keep the tape in place.

Not sure if any of this will make sense.

As Tom has said, Sonny. Some of those old Sheffield razors have seen way too much, pasted strops. And contributes to most of the wear. Knowing how to decipher the difference between over honed or stroped, is the key to how its taped. Sounds like u got a few blades to learn from. Just practice on some clunkers, you'll catch on quick.

Originally Posted by sonnythehooligan

Outback, I see you mentioned this working for when the wear is even on both sides.

Some of the blades I see are warped (or have other issues) such that the wear doesn't match on both sides.

Could you still use this method by finding the worn/low spots on each side and only sticking the tape over the spots that need it on that particular side?

Since the tape wouldn't be going over the top of the spine to the other side in this case I'm not sure how well it would stick, but that last piece that goes over the entire length of the spine and covers both sides might keep the tape in place.

Not sure if any of this will make sense.

You nailed it.!!

Yes, I've come across those as well. And is done as you've explained. For warped blades, use a narrow hone, or as Glen and Roy (cuddarunner) has mentioned, use only a third of a wide Stone. ( 3" ) or the side of it.

For example.


This one is warped and twisted, had to keep a loose wrist while honing, so it would contour with the hone.

Ok, cool.

I did find that thread where they were talking about concentrating on a narrow section of the hone and making sure each part of the bevel makes contact at some point during the stroke.

Doing that was the first time I was able to set a bevel on a warped razor.

I saw a YouTube vid of Keith Johnson honing a razor on a coticule rubbing stone just for fun. Sounds like the ideal width stone for this differentiated taping strategy. I have a 2” x 1/2” coticule rubbing stone and a W&B with an uneven bevel I will try this with.

Oh my! NOW we are dragging them off the side of the hone! One side only!

Some refreshes: Jacques Le Coultre on the Escher, Cedric Christ on the Nakayama and Bruno blade and Tanifuji on the Gok 20k. All honed with one layer of tape.