Thread: Is this microchipping...

@Euclid440 I could do a comparison of the two...

Let me do the 12K and if that goes OK, I can photograph and test shave. Then, I can try film and photograph.

If I do that, should I start with 1um or drop to 3um?
Around how many strokes should I do on the film (I can check periodically)?
I could test shave again with the 1um and then the .3um?

It may be good to see the difference between Cr-Ox, 0.3um, and paper (with 0.3um?).

I need to check the flatness of the glass tiles though, as Utopian was mentioning. I did see a lot of 220 grit in the sink, so I should make sure that it worked OK.

Will play with all this over the next few nights.

Worked on the 12k with 2 layers of tape. Did rolling X strokes, checked with perpendicular strokes (good except at very end of toe on each side), and then back to rolling X strokes. There are a few spots on each side, where there are deeper stria (tried to capture some in the shots). Pretty good at the heel and toe now. Looks very good in the middle. Here are some high magnification shots:



Was thinking of trying Cr-Ox, stropping, and doing a test shave Saturday. What do you think?

BTW: I did a grid on the glass tile that I had flattened with the 220 Norton. I ended up lapping for a long time, as about 2+" on each end were low. It's much better now, but boy, is my arm tired!

Personally, I believe smooth is more important than flat, and flat enough is plenty flat, especially with film.

The reason I flatten film substrate, is for better contact with the film for adhesion, and better grit usage. I have no problem with folks that want their stones or substrate “perfectly” flat, but really, it just does not make a difference.

Yes, do test the 12k edge, stropping on Chrome Oxide will improve the edge, making it more comfortable. The edge and bevel, does look good and should shave well.

From a 12k edge, I would hone on 3um film to set a new stria pattern and straighten the edge, then move up. You can finish on 1um and test, then test a .3um edge. It should only take 10 – 20 laps from your 12k edge on 3um, but looking at it and ensuring that you are reaching the edge will tell you how many laps you will need.

For clarification, stropping on paper, under film, will polish the edge and about a third of the bevel slightly convexing the bevel to the edge and make a marked improvement in the shave. Stropping on Chrome Oxide, post .3um would be undoing the edge quality, CBN would be a better choice or just clean leather. Post 1um, Chrome Ox will show edge improvement.

Originally Posted by Euclid440

From a 12k edge, I would hone on 3um film to set a new stria pattern and straighten the edge, then move up. You can finish on 1um and test, then test a .3um edge. It should only take 10 – 20 laps from your 12k edge on 3um, but looking at it and ensuring that you are reaching the edge will tell you how many laps you will need.

For clarification, stropping on paper, under film, will polish the edge and about a third of the bevel slightly convexing the bevel to the edge and make a marked improvement in the shave. Stropping on Chrome Oxide, post .3um would be undoing the edge quality, CBN would be a better choice or just clean leather. Post 1um, Chrome Ox will show edge improvement.

From the 12K SS, I stropped on linen and then leather, and did a shave this morning with the Spike and it was super! Very comfortable!

The next step will be to try playing with the film, and doing some shots along the way. Probably won't get to it until Sunday, and if not, next Thursday.

Appreciate the help along.

Well, tried the film tonight. Didn't fair well though, and can use some advice.

For starters, not really great shots (I needed to clean the blade better), this was after 12K, stropping, test shave, and more stropping, but it gives a starting point:

I put two layers of tape on the blade, applied the 3um film to the glass tile, squeegeed it on, marked the edge and did a stoke. Seemed to be covering OK. Did 10 rolling X strokes, and saw that the very toe and heel on the left side (only) wasn't getting honed as well as the rest. Did another set of 10, and then a third set, and it seems to be covered pretty well. The stria looks good, I think:



Not perfect at toe and heel on left side, but not bad. The film did move around a bit at first, but then was OK.

Feeling confident (oh oh), I moved to the 1um, applied the film, put new tape on the Spike, and did about 12 strokes. The film was also moving a bit, and unfortunately, on one stroke, the blade caught on the film and put a slice in it (from the heel side, diagonally for about 2" long, and less than 1" from the edge). The film overhangs the edge on each side. Hindsight says, I should have shifted the film over, so that it was flush with the edge on the heel side (doing rolling X with heel forward, the toe doesn't reach the edge).

In any case, I decided to check the edge. The stria looks pretty good, but when I got to the toe, I see that there appears to be a small divot. I verified with a couple of extra shots shots:



Looks like it is about 0.5mm from the edge. Really hard to see with lower magnification:



Questions...

What grit (stone) should I try to get that ding out? 12k?

I'm not sure what introduces the chip/ding/whatever. Could it have been from electrical tape (sometimes there is fine balls of tape - it think from the edge - maybe I need newer tape)?

Do you think I need to ensure the film is flush with the edge? Or is it because the glass tile tapers along the edge?

Here's the film...

Go back to the 8k and hone the chip out, should not take much. The edge is crumbling or you got some grit on the film or under.

Yea, get a roll of new tape, if your tape is old. If you feel the razor sticking or see bits on the film or stone replace the tape. Film is very aggressive and will burn through tape faster than a stone.

The 3um will easily remove 8k stria and 8k will remove small chips. You do have to hone to the edge at the heel and toe.

If you plate is curved at the edge, put the curve on the toe side with the film at the edge. You can roll the film to curl towards the substrate than away from the glass. Keep the film wet use a squirt bottle rather than a spray bottle for more water. A plastic tray will contain water and swarf. A couple slow laps will squeegee the water from under the film and stick it to the substrate.

But bevels do look good.

Brand new tape (made a big difference - no little balls of tape coming off, when starting to hone). Back on 8K with 2 layers. Able to get rid of the little chip. High magnification:


Low magnification of toe and heel:


Seem to be getting close on the toe and heel, except on the right side heel. There is deeper stria.