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Thread: Is this microchipping...
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01-18-2016, 05:44 PM #101
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Thanked: 3215Looks like some funky steel at the toe and that you are still not honing all the toe as well as the rest of the blade. The rest of the blade looks good, but, still some chipping.
I would remove some more steel, as it does seem the deeper you go the better the steel looks. I would breadknife, (full edge flat on the stone face) on the 8k to remove a couple thousands and get the edge completely straight, probably take 4-5 strokes.
Then re-set the edge on the 4k, 1k will leave deep stria, then work it back up. You will know right away if you are getting good steel after the bevel set, it should go quickly.
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pcm (01-18-2016)
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01-18-2016, 05:49 PM #102
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Thanked: 3215Some good work on this thread. PM me your address and I will send you some lapping film.
I have had good luck with film and chippy hard razors. It would be interesting to see what it would do on this razor. Still think you need to remove some more of the edge and get to solid steel.
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pcm (01-18-2016)
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01-18-2016, 11:12 PM #103
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01-22-2016, 01:59 AM #104
Breadknifed 4 times on 8k face, added two layers of tape, used 4K, rolling X strokes, then perpendicular (so I could see stria), and back to rolling X with light pressure. There's not too many deep stria. The toe on left side (3rd shot) is not getting honed right to the edge (1mm), and a tiny bit on the right heel (0.5mm - hard to see with reflections - first shot). Here are some low and high magnification shots:
Thoughts? Suggestions?
I'll get another chance to work on this Saturday.
Thanks!Regards,
PCM
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01-22-2016, 04:06 AM #105
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Thanked: 3215Start your rolling x with the heel forward and put your index finger on the heel, keep the heel on the stone at least halfway across the stone.
Then swing the toe around and down towards the corner with the index finger on the tip of the toe and lift the heel just a smig. Some ink on the whole bevel will show you how much to rock/roll it.
You just have to get the rolling action down, it is not that exaggerated, the finger pressure may be enough.
It’s kind of like riding a bike you just have to think about turning, to make it go around a corner. The pressures shift is a combination of lifting the heel and torqueing the pressure ever so slightly towards the edge and just visualizing the pressure shift from heel to toe. The ink will tell you when you got it. Other than that, the stria pattern looks good.
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pcm (01-23-2016)
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01-23-2016, 11:19 PM #106
I spent more time on the 4K with 2 layers of tape tonight. It looks pretty good to me. Just the very end of the toe on the left side (w.r.t. looking at the edge) has a little deeper stria, and was maybe not getting as much contact on the hone. I did check with ink and, at least on the stroke I did, it covered the edge well.
Here are some high magnification shots:
What do ya think? Seems like I could try the 8K or should I try to work on that toe more?Regards,
PCM
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01-24-2016, 01:32 AM #107
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Thanked: 3215Try the 8k but spend a little more time on the toe with some pressure, looks a lot better.
Here is the photo of the skew for the glass plate for the film, dont know why the PM would not let me upload.
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pcm (01-24-2016)
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01-24-2016, 01:41 AM #108
Cool. I'll try to get that from Lowes.
So, I lapp the tile with my DMT, and then can apply the film as you mentioned?
Should I try a film after I get done with the Naniwa 12k? Which film?
Thanks!Regards,
PCM
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01-24-2016, 02:56 AM #109
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Thanked: 3215Smooth out the bevel on the pink 3um to straighten the edge, then move to the Green 1um and finish on the White .3um
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pcm (01-24-2016)
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01-24-2016, 04:05 PM #110
I wasn't able to find the glass tile part number mentioned (nor could the sales person) at Lowes, but I found a clear glass tile of the same size (part number 696086). They were $2.68 each.
I'll work on flattening them later this week.Regards,
PCM