Thread: Is this microchipping...

Could I flatten the 220 Norton I have (which I never use), and then use that to flatten the glass tiles?

Never tried that, might work. Wet & Dry is probably more abrasive.

The plate looks good, most of mine look like yours and work just fine.

I'll tinker with it a bit. I've got to do the other tile too.

FYI, the flattened Norton 220 made quicker work as a flattener for the glass tile. I think I have them both set up now. Will need to try them next. Given where I'm at, should I finish with the 8K, do the 12K SS, and then use the film, or try using the film now? In either case, which one should I use?

Granted, they'll be a learning curve.

I used two layers of tape, and the 8K Norton tonight. First doing rolling Xs, and then some perpendicular strokes to see if I'm removing the 4K stria. Finally, I did more of the rolling Xs. The was tough to get the heel. I had to use quite a bit of pressure and torquing. The toe is pretty good on both sides, and the edge head on looks great - centered and meeting well. TPT seems awfully sharp to me!

Here are some shots at high magnification:



Thoughts?

Did you confirm that the Norton 220 and glass remained flat? Given how soft the 220 is, I would have assumed that high spots on the glass would produce depressions in the 220 and that neither would end up flat.

Yes, much better, the edge looks nice and straight except for the one spot on the second to the last photo just short of the toe.

Yup, that is the gymnastics that Glen is always talking about. What ever it takes…

Slap it on the 12K…

Originally Posted by Utopian

Did you confirm that the Norton 220 and glass remained flat? Given how soft the 220 is, I would have assumed that high spots on the glass would produce depressions in the 220 and that neither would end up flat.

Good point! No, I didn't check that. Will take a look tonight. There was quite a bit of green particles coming off the 220. WIll see how flat it is and the glass.

Originally Posted by Euclid440

Yes, much better, the edge looks nice and straight except for the one spot on the second to the last photo just short of the toe.

Yup, that is the gymnastics that Glen is always talking about. What ever it takes…

Slap it on the 12K…

Will try the 12k tonight. I'm anxious to see how it feels on a test shave... it does seem to be shaping up better than earlier honing.

I did not see your other post. You can go to film after the 12k and use it as a finisher or after the 8k.

Film will leave a much finer and uniform stria pattern than a stone, so I usually drop down in grit a bit and reset the stria pattern to straighten the edge with 3um, (Pink) about 8K. Film is aggressive and the uniform grit helps with edges that chip easily. So it will not take many laps to reset the stria pattern and edge. Once the film is squeeged to the glass, you can do any stroke that you would do on a stone. Lapping the substrate smooth really helps in making the film stick and in performance.

Just make sure your substrate and film are clean and free of any grit. I apply under running water.

In your case it will be interesting to see the difference between the 12k Super Stone edge and the film. After 1um, (Green) 12-16K film the edge will be super straight and you can shave off that edge very nicely. Chrome Oxide stropping will make the edge a little bit smoother or finish hone on film over copy paper for a smoother edge.

Or finish on .3um (White) 50-60K and finish on paper, but I find it a bit harsh. I usually just use film as a finisher after a 12K, beginning with 3um and finishing on 1um.