Thread: What are you working on?

Hole sizing diameters

Change of subject...back
Gasman, I remember that you have very nice #0-80 threaded clamping pins so your holes should be larger... I believe closer to 0.07 Dia.Seems about right.

My clamp pins were surplus cut offs and are #00-90 which are exactly 0.0625 diameter So I get a closer slip fit and use the smaller diameters for most work.

Cheerz!
~Richard
PS. Hard to keep all the folks details in mind; or whats left of it. Sometimes it takes a week or more to surface.

CRS hits us all Richard. You did better than I when it came to remembering that stuff.

I got the 3 sizes because I was thinking that the #52 being just over the size of the pins might be nice for the times that everything lines up perfect, the hole in the blade is true and not oversized or crooked. The #50 being between the #52 and the #48 might be good for standard Sil/Nic pins as I find them a touch thicker than the brass rod. And the #48 is as close to 5/32" as it can be so that would be good for taking apart pins and standard use. I feel I did good in choosing sizes and I got two of each so that I should always have one set at the drill press and one set in my room.

Just put the second coat of Tru-oil on the scales and I have the bone-soaking in soapy water to help get rid of any oils left on it. This evening sometime I will cut it in half and soak one half in peroxide to whiten it. So maybe next days off I might be able to finish up the wedges and get them pinned up. That's my plan anyway.
Here is what the scales look like now with the second coat of Tru-oil. I can tell that the Lacewood is porous and it's going to take a lot of coats to fill the pours. Then some sanding to level and then a few more coats. This is how I fill the porous wood anyway.



Loving the look of the Zebrawood in the upper, left corner. And the Marblewood seems to be two different shades. Oh well.

Originally Posted by Geezer

What you are using is working very well for you. My background is as a machinist and I have the number set. Still, whatever you like is available in split point. That was only one page of the catalog.
Clicking on the directory on the left of the page will get those in the size you want
Enjoy!

~Richard

Yep, Richard is right as far as drill bits. A split point works great!
And like Tom, I use 3 in 1 oil.

I had never herd of split point before. But there are a lot of things I don't know about when it comes to some areas of tools.

My main drill bit size I use is .0635" & my nickel silver & brass pinning material is .062".
A split point has more flute clearance than the normal drill bit for quicker, straighter drilling allowing more chip removal compared to the conventional bit.

Been mentioned be4fore...the short "Jobbers Length" bits are stiffer than longer ones and wish to track better. Also,do not put any of the flute length into the chuck. They can bend without warning.

Have fun and be safe out there!
~Richard

According to the specs, the bit is 1.75 inches in length and flute is 0.75 so its short! Just what i was looking for. Got a good feeling this is exactly what i was in need of. Next time i need a tool i will be sure to ask ya Richard.

Honed this one up last night after a little frown removal. Thanks Tom!
Also was my shave of the day pic. Nice shave. The way I like it.

My bits were 2" long so with the jobber bit, it makes good sense to have a shorter bit, especially with the shorter flute which give it even more strength. I know I've used jobber bits before but it's possible they got broken or some reason I can't remember. The bit I was actually using would be a #52 bit which is .063". My digital caliper did fluctuate between .063"-.0635".

Sharpening drill bits is a skill I have always been jealous of and never mastered.

Another thing for my bucket list.