Like Tree91447Likes

Thread: What are you working on?

  1. #18601
    Senior Member blabbermouth outback's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Akron, Ohio
    Posts
    12,056
    Thanked: 4312

    Default

    Got it soaking in a multitude of degreasers as of now. Next step was the thinner.

    It was free from the box, no glue.
    Did notice that the bottom of the stone is very light in color, compared to my other Washitas. I'm crossing my fingers for a Lilly white, for the collection.

  2. #18602
    Senior Member blabbermouth PaulFLUS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    Gainesville, FL
    Posts
    6,462
    Thanked: 660

    Default

    So I decided it was time to start the restore on this 1830s-1840s W&B wedge in horn. More later on that but either I suck or the search function on my phone sucks because I did a search trying to find more info on horn dying and my dumb a$$ can't seem to find what I'm looking for. So, do I remember correctly that I dye THEN soak in Neatsfoot? I've done the bite patching and sanded as much as I intend to (more maybe) and I'm ready to dye it back dark but I want to make sure I do it in the right order.
    Thanks in advance.
    Iron by iron is sharpened, And a man sharpens the face of his friend. PR 27:17

  3. #18603
    Senior Member blabbermouth RezDog's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Haida Gwaii, British Columbia, Canada
    Posts
    14,438
    Thanked: 4827

    Default

    Dye it first has worked for me, but I haven’t the experience that outback and a few others have, I only have one horn dye job completed.
    PaulFLUS likes this.
    It's not what you know, it's who you take fishing!

  4. #18604
    Senior Member blabbermouth outback's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Akron, Ohio
    Posts
    12,056
    Thanked: 4312

    Default

    Dye...then oil
    PaulFLUS likes this.
    Mike

  5. #18605
    Senior Member blabbermouth PaulFLUS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    Gainesville, FL
    Posts
    6,462
    Thanked: 660

    Default

    Yeah, I was pretty sure that was right. Sure enough.that I went ahead and dyed them last night.
    RezDog, outback and Gasman like this.
    Iron by iron is sharpened, And a man sharpens the face of his friend. PR 27:17

  6. #18606
    Senior Member blabbermouth ScoutHikerDad's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Upstate South Carolina
    Posts
    3,308
    Thanked: 987

    Default

    I have a wood finishing question. Though I have been using TruOil with excellent results, I am kind of interested in Waterlox, as it apparently combines a penetrating tung oil with form-filming resin to lock out water with a durable finish. That would seem like a good application for wood-scaled razors. Has anybody used it? If so, I'd like to know your thoughts.

    The downside is that a quart is seriously expensive, and word is that it gels or hardens up quickly like Tru Oil with any air exposure.

    edit: They have all of their finishes in 2 oz. sample sizes. I may see if I can find some to try.
    Last edited by ScoutHikerDad; 06-28-2020 at 03:28 PM.
    There are many roads to sharp.

  7. #18607
    Senior Member blabbermouth ScoutHikerDad's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Upstate South Carolina
    Posts
    3,308
    Thanked: 987

    Default

    In other news, I have finished this Army Navy CSL save for the collars from our Romanian supplier. I made the scales from his cutting board cut-offs to match the brush handles he turned from the same stock for me to knot. I also backed them with G10 for structural stability. I think the redheart wedge will be a nice unifying accent to complement the same wood on the scales. It's a departure from my usual style in every way, but it will be a nice complement to his brand of similar cutting boards and pepper-mills, and a fitting thanks for all the work he has done for me lately. Here it is in mock-up:
    Name:  Army Navy CSL in Progress.jpg
Views: 133
Size:  20.7 KB
    As I was going for a more rounded profile than usual to go along with the matching round brush handle, I figured out a new technique that works a treat. I cut standard length sandpaper in strips about 3/4" wide, then secured one end of the scales in my knife-vise, and went to work over the length of the scale surface much like shining shoes, back and forth with some tension. Flip it around and repeat to even, then turn over and do the same. I did this with 400, 600, and 1k grits, and finished it in about 9 coats of TruOil. This is one of those techniques that seems so obvious once you figure it out. I will definitely repeat it for all my rounded scales.
    There are many roads to sharp.

  8. #18608
    32t
    32t is offline
    Senior Member blabbermouth 32t's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    50 miles west of randydance
    Posts
    9,666
    Thanked: 1354

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ScoutHikerDad View Post
    I have a wood finishing question. Though I have been using TruOil with excellent results, I am kind of interested in Waterlox, as it apparently combines a penetrating tung oil with form-filming resin to lock out water with a durable finish. That would seem like a good application for wood-scaled razors. Has anybody used it? If so, I'd like to know your thoughts.

    The downside is that a quart is seriously expensive, and word is that it gels or hardens up quickly like Tru Oil with any air exposure.

    edit: They have all of their finishes in 2 oz. sample sizes. I may see if I can find some to try.
    Can you transfer the quart to smaller one or two time use containers without exposing it to much?
    ScoutHikerDad likes this.

  9. #18609
    32t
    32t is offline
    Senior Member blabbermouth 32t's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    50 miles west of randydance
    Posts
    9,666
    Thanked: 1354

    Default

    I just had this vision of purging a smaller sandblasting box with an Argon welding gas and then doing the transfers in there.

    Maybe overkill and more expensive but I had to laugh at myself how my mind wanders sometimes!

  10. #18610
    Senior Member blabbermouth ScoutHikerDad's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Upstate South Carolina
    Posts
    3,308
    Thanked: 987

    Default

    Yeah, Tim-In doing my reading on the subject, I read about a welder who did exactly that. Some fill to the top with marbles or ball bearings. If I try it, I'll probably just get the sample size to keep things simple.
    32t, Cangooner, RezDog and 1 others like this.
    There are many roads to sharp.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •