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Thread: What are you working on?

  1. #14051
    Razor Vulture sharptonn's Avatar
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    Lots of deep pitting on the spine and tang....
    Will likely leave some of it....
    Good thing the blade was reground. The faces are nice.

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    Pried the de-lamination on the inside of the scales open with a straight-pin and dribbled some CA down-in and clamped them...Some epoxy and Bog dust to come later.

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    Some things indispensable for me. 3 Diapads, 500, 800, and 1500.
    Takes off lots of metal and keep the tang flat. They don't ever seem to wear-out.
    Saves a lot of sandpaper!

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    I am roughing the spine and tangs up with that little detail sander and my roughest belt and then using the diapads to smooth the tang in progression....Repeat.
    On the spine, a Dremel pad loaded with 400 and 600 greaseless to smooth that.
    Again, rough-up and repeat. Sloooow-going.
    Guess I am about halfway there?
    Last edited by sharptonn; 09-15-2018 at 02:44 AM.

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    Senior Member blabbermouth RezDog's Avatar
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    3M diapads eh. Interesting. I will google those.
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  4. #14053
    Senior Member MikeT's Avatar
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    The specialty tools come out!!
    Okay so what are these diapads? Looked on the fleabay and didn't see any.
    Ace Hardware?
    Paint store?
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    The Great & Powerful Oz onimaru55's Avatar
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    Razor Vulture sharptonn's Avatar
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    They are used a lot in the marble countertop trade. I seem to be close to what must be the biggest marble spot in the world. Houston has scads of huge warehouses and office parks dedicated to it. I found them at a marble-working supply place.
    They won't wear out!

    That little detail sander is great too. It came from Stewart-MacDonald, a luthier supply.
    Last edited by sharptonn; 09-15-2018 at 02:45 AM.

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    Razor Vulture sharptonn's Avatar
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    Dropping down to the 400 greaseless made quicker work on the spine.
    Got the tang as good as it was going to get and used a q-tip and some rust/blue remover to get the rust out of the tang stamp. Sanded through 1500 and some buffer and compound.
    Now for the scales....Found the maker's mark!
    Looks like G*R

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  10. #14057
    Senior Member MikeT's Avatar
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    Question about polishing/grinding wheels and greaseless compound...

    Are there other wheels, perhaps more rigid?, that I can use that will minimize digging out pits?
    From my experience, too much pressure will dig out pits. Changing angles with light pressure helps.
    But I'm curious if there are more tips on technique and tools..
    Thank you gentleman!

    EDIT: Leather wheels?
    Last edited by MikeT; 09-15-2018 at 02:46 PM.
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  11. #14058
    Razor Vulture sharptonn's Avatar
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    I have some orange Dremel wheels, very stiff and about 1.5 in diameter which outback gave me.
    Seems to be layered and sewn-tight polyester fabric. Greaseless on soft felt wheels will only expand pits and will take sharp edges away. The hard orange wheels work better with the greaseless.
    Still, the stuff can do good or harm. The rougher grits are useless for razors, IMO. I stick with the finest stuff from Caswell, the 600 for the most part. Never loaded it on big wheels on a buffer like some do.
    Last edited by sharptonn; 09-15-2018 at 03:55 PM.
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    Senior Member blabbermouth RezDog's Avatar
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    I have leather and hard felt wheels and do not like them at all. I use the hard sewn denim wheels or the treated yellow wheels. I dont use my buffers a lot. Mostly for polishing. It is crazy easy to round off the grind lines.
    It's not what you know, it's who you take fishing!

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    Senior Member blabbermouth outback's Avatar
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    I got you some of the wheels, that Tom has, Mike.

    Still putting a gift box together for ya, think there's a dozen of them wheels, plus some green scotch brite wheels.

    Work in circles, Mike. Keeps things a lot more even, with the dremmel. Doesn't leave everything all wavey

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    Last edited by outback; 09-15-2018 at 04:53 PM.
    Mike

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