Thread: What are you working on?

Originally Posted by Gasman

Tom, i too like using CA on the insides. I did this with three coats. Seals then up nicely. But i hadn't thought about the strength it add. I bet it does help some. Thanks for the comment gentlemen. I did like working with this stuff and hope to buy some in the future as it sure does make some good looking original pieces of wood. So break out that stuff you got and make some slabs. Id be happy to buy some.

I'll have to try the CA on the insides smoothed with Marty's silicon spatula-sounds like a great idea. I'm currently taking a break from wood with an easy Keen Kutter in acrylic, but will try the CA on wood or horn next go round.

As for the stabilizing, I don't currently have anything to put in it really. I have a huge cherry burl still in log form that is probably years from being useable. I probably need to call my woodworker friend for some cutoffs; he uses a lot of burls and spalted stuff. I know that I also want to dye whatever I stabilize-I love some of the highly-figured and colored stabilized blanks. Let me get back to you on that.

I can wait. It would be nice to see what you put together. And a little color is also something I think makes things look best.

I remember my mother using Future on the floor. I bet I can find some. Might be something to try. Thanks, Marty.

Originally Posted by Geezer

See above post.
CA has an affinity for H2O and will harden if exposed over time. Future CA floor product would harden in the bottle and so will CA products . . . usually splitting the bottle and ruining all around it from the final liquid left unhardened.
Future was a long time favorite of model builders looking for a self leveling smooth surface. It hardened slowly enough to level out.

Might be a winner for scales???
Latest info as to a replacement here:
Future replacement

YMMV
~Richard

Originally Posted by Gasman

I can wait. It would be nice to see what you put together. And a little color is also something I think makes things look best.

I remember my mother using Future on the floor. I bet I can find some. Might be something to try. Thanks, Marty.

This might also be helpful to find 'FUTURE'-------------

Reader Tip: Pledge Floor Gloss or Future has new name | FineScale Modeler Magazine

I have used Future on faux finishes, mostly on wood as a sealer coat or finish coat where a bit of shine is needed, it can be dulled to satin with fine steel wool then waxed for a nice semi-gloss finish.

It sprays well with an air brush, even a cheap one, brushed with a fine nylon brush (I like the flat Loew Golden Taklon white ones) or dipped. As Geezer said it has been used for years in the modeling hobby and is great for clear plastic parts like canopies and windshields where it is often dipped or as a clear coat over paint, because it is self-leveling.

There are lots of good inexpensive craft brushes available now, I also like the flat, white ones from Diaso that are sold in a multi pack, great for the price. The Loew brushes are well made and come in wide flat widths, ¾ and 1 inch and are a bit pricier, I have some I used for years. A small bottle of brush cleaner is a good investment.

Air brushed, you can lay down several coats in a short time as it dries quickly. I have not used it on wood scales, I haven’t done wood scales in years.

Question about G10 scales:
I've got the scales thinned to about 0.095" at the pivot and 0.110 at the wedge and there is barely any flex. I'm wondering if these will work with a wedge or if I should go with a spacer. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Here's number 2 of the Imperial 7 day set I'm putting together.

It's not exactly the same as number 1 but that's maybe even better

I bought 3 and 4 but I haven't gotten them yet. Probably end of this week or next week.


Number 3 has a chip off of the toe but maybe that one will become a round point just to shake things up. Still considering engraving the days of the week on the spine if I can find a suitable way to do that without it turning into too big an expense. I've thought about playing around with acid etching. Still kind of tossing ideas around.

Originally Posted by JellyJar

Question about G10 scales:
I've got the scales thinned to about 0.095" at the pivot and 0.110 at the wedge and there is barely any flex. I'm wondering if these will work with a wedge or if I should go with a spacer. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks in advance.

G10 is crazy strong material, and it will likely need to be quite a bit thinner to flex. I would thin them as opposed to using a spacer.

Rounding the tip is a good idea Paul. Keep it up and you will have a great set. Keep us posted on the etching.

I'll try a wedge first and see it it will work as is. The scales flex about close to horn, it just takes a lot more force. I'm not a fan of the feel of super thin scales, so I probably won't thin them much more. Thanks for the advice.

Originally Posted by PaulFLUS

Here's number 2 of the Imperial 7 day set I'm putting together.

Cool project, can't wait to see it finished.