Thread: What are you working on?

No G10. I decided it was going to be strong enough. Still needs to go to the hones but that will have to wait a week.



Austin's silver collars, Brass pins, and lead wedge. There is a little knot I left in the top edge of the back scale to show it is wood. And I love the fit of the blade when closed. Lines up with the scale shape nicely.

Pete-I have had great luck (and no dust!) cutting the scale liners of between .010" and .020" with big sharp scissors; I'm even getting reasonable curves accurately. No bandsaw or scroll-saw necessary. Of course that wouldn't work on thicker pieces like knife-makers use.

And great work on that one, Jerry-Whatever kind of wood it is, it seems to have been dyed red in the tank. Reminds me I've got to order some Cactus Juice and start playing with my own stabilizing set-up (which I traded with my knife-maker friend for the forge and gas my son quit using). I love the way stabilized wood actually works and finishes much like acrylic.

Gasman that razor looks great! That wood is very distinctive and unique. I like it.

I was aware of the breathing hazards of G10, so shop vac dust collection and particle mask was in use. Wet sanding is a good idea.

Beautiful work Jerry. That's a really nicely balanced project

I know I am crazy, but slathering the backside of scales with CA helps a great deal.
You can sand it and go again all you want.
I have done it with weak wood and horn with great success.

A funny little thing about dust collection. Your filters on the exhaust air are the most important part. If you are not filtering the finest particle going through your dust collection system, you are recirculating the very most dangerous of all the particle. In fact you are poisoning the air in your shop and leaving it deposited on top of everything in your shop.

Tom, i too like using CA on the insides. I did this with three coats. Seals then up nicely. But i hadn't thought about the strength it add. I bet it does help some. Thanks for the comment gentlemen. I did like working with this stuff and hope to buy some in the future as it sure does make some good looking original pieces of wood. So break out that stuff you got and make some slabs. Id be happy to buy some.

Pick up a small silicone spatula from a dollar store, they come very small for cupcake frosting. Use them to smooth the CA, try not to fuss with it too much.

Once dried, bending the silicone will pop the glue off. It keeps the CA off your fingers and gives a smooth finish.

One more CA tip, store opened CA bottles in a re-sealable screw type rubber sealed Ball jar. They come in different sizes so buy one large enough to store your bottle in.

I buy the smaller bottles for easy storage and if it does kick off, I don’t loose too much, (I have forgotten to put the cap back on and put into the jar).

Your CA will last a lot longer, also don’t store your kicker next to the open bottle of CA. I store the kicker in a separate Ball Jar.

So, something I have always wondered, is there a difference between Dollar Store CA and the name brands? I have used both and never noticed a difference.

See above post.
CA has an affinity for H2O and will harden if exposed over time. Future CA floor product would harden in the bottle and so will CA products . . . usually splitting the bottle and ruining all around it from the final liquid left unhardened.
Future was a long time favorite of model builders looking for a self leveling smooth surface. It hardened slowly enough to level out.

Might be a winner for scales???
Latest info as to a replacement here:
Future replacement

YMMV
~Richard