Thread: What are you working on?

I couldn't really tell how deep the etching is on Peter's blade but I have blued the whole face and used plain paper rolled tightly on a dowel to "sand" off the resisted high parts. It's a tricky business and not for the faint of heart but I have saved an etching or two that way. Mostly.they were ruined anyway (In my ignorance I sanded one removing spots and removed all the dark part) so I had little to lose.

There is a thread from 2014 named
"Revealing Etchings "

The blade has to be scrupulously clean, ,(WD40 to remove any polish then toothbrush and acetone, to remove the WD40), to get the blue to stick well in the etch, Then polish with 1um lapping film to remove the blue from the blade and not the etch.

I heat the blade with hot water, then dry well before applying the cold blue.

Originally Posted by Geezer

There is a thread from 2014 named
"Revealing Etchings "

Hey Richard if that is your post that you're talking about which I'm assuming it is can you post a link back to that. That was a very good thread. Better than the one I posted

I cannot, I'm on a cellphone only.
I think that the thread is the first in my started posts.
-Richard

https://sharprazorpalace.com/worksho...-etchings.html
I think this is it.

Yeah, that's it. Thanks Shaun. One thing I will say, his method is a little different from mine. For shallow acid etching paper works pretty well. It takes patience and courage but can revive a very faint almost lost very shallow etching. I've found brown paper seems to work best; not like paper bag paper, more like packaging paper. In my experience it has to be done sometimes more than once, even several times. Also when I said blue the whole blade that is not really correct. What I did was blue the entire part that was etched. Often it is in a block like a frame.
I must also say that I do not recommend it as a general practice for restoration. It can easily ruin an etching that should have been left alone. The cases where I have used it was when the etch was basically ruined otherwise.
Richard's method is very good for engravings

Restoring a Wade & Butcher

A bit of hone wear to sand out, on the blade.

And repair the scale's that were badly repaired once before.

Someone tried to do some type of repair to the wedge end of the scales, similar to how I repair missing scale piece's, but they did it while still pinned, and made it usable again, but very unpleasant to look at. More like a blob of who knows what, fusing both scales and wedge, together as one.

Originally Posted by outback

Restoring a Wade & Butcher

A bit of hone wear to sand out, on the blade.

And repair the scale's that were badly repaired once before.

Someone tried to do some type of repair to the wedge end of the scales, similar to how I repair missing scale piece's, but they did it while still pinned, and made it usable again, but very unpleasant to look at. More like a blob of who knows what, fusing both scales and wedge, together as one.

Mike you can work miracles with straight razors! I can't wait to see the end product. I know it will be Outstanding!

It is true, outback does very nice work.