Thread: What are you working on?

Started a restore on a Shepard, for Steve56.

Blade needs no more than a good rub with 3M, but the scales will need the most attention. Thankfully, most of the damage is to the backside, scale, but there's a piece missing on the show side, pivot end, that needs addressed as well.

Whoa! That thing is totally bada$$! I'm anxious to see what you do with it Mike.

You should get one from this era, Paul. A real treat to shave with .

Still waiting on this one to come in. It will be a project also but looking forward to it.


Plus I have the Packwood that I am stalled in the process of blade work. Got distracted by other shiny things

Looks very similar.

I just finished upgrading this Harbor Freight paint compression can into a pressure pot for casting brush handle Alumilite resin molds. Saved quite a bit of money in doing so, too! Here’s the final product. With a coupon, I spent less than $100.

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The paint pressure pot will work. Maybe 10 years ago A friend and me used this to stabilize some spalted maple with polyurethane. We would build up the pressure and let it sit for awhile then break the pressure for a bit then go thru that cycle several times. The downside to using poly is a very lengthy drying time. 30 days is nowhere near enough. The dimensions were 1.5" x 1.5" x 4-7 ". These were for hidden tang, forged, hunting knives.

I think you will find that it will not maintain a given pressure for any length of time. You will have to monitor it and pump it back up from time to time.

Just my 2¢

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A couple of years ago I gave my brother some of the stabilized blocks. He makes split bamboo fly rods so he used the spalted maple and turned them on his lathe into reel seats. Looked fabulous!

Hi Randy,
In industry we did the same thing but used vacuum and had a view port to know when to break the vacuum before the bubbles overflowed the container.
Both seem to work. Early urethane's and acrylics were very hydrophilic and the entrained H2O molecules would cause a very cloudy casting.
~Geezer

Originally Posted by Geezer

Hi Randy,
In industry we did the same thing but used vacuum and had a view port to know when to break the vacuum before the bubbles overflowed the container.
Both seem to work. Early urethane's and acrylics were very hydrophilic and the entrained H2O molecules would cause a very cloudy casting.
~Geezer

So the rule is to use very dry wood!