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Thread: What are you working on?

  1. #6501
    Senior Member blabbermouth outback's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HARRYWALLY View Post
    Had some time yesterday to take my FBU to some 320 grit sandpaper to work out a bad chip. Some side to side strokes over the length of the blade edge, all while watching very closely to maintain the curvature of the smiling edge. Had to remove about 3/64 of the blade width, and as it stands now, I'm just creeping up on it completely vanishing. You should be able to still see a bit of the chip in the pic. I'm planning on leaving it at this stage, and completely remove it during the bevel set. This way I can maximise what's left of it's size........ Cause sizes matters with these you know!

    During the bevel set I will continually check the chip with an eye loop until it is completely gone.

    Here's the original pic of the razor.

    Attachment 253730

    Here's after my work on the 320 grit paper.

    Attachment 253731
    You'd be surprised on how long it'll take ya to remove that with a 1000.
    I'd get it a little closer, like all but gone.

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  3. #6502
    Senior Member blabbermouth ejmolitor37's Avatar
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    That's a blade of beauty! Nice save.

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  4. #6503
    I love Burls....... and Acrylic HARRYWALLY's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ejmolitor37 View Post
    That's a blade of beauty! Nice save.

    Sent from my SCH-R530U using Tapatalk
    Well, I'm still making a go of it. I'm nervous doing this to this specific blade. I really don't want to mess up the geometry and have things go wonky during the bevel set. That's my number 1 fear.
    Burls, Girls, and all things that Swirl....

  5. #6504
    Razor Vulture sharptonn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HARRYWALLY View Post
    Ya but this way when I talk about it in future posts I can refer to it as 67/64.... Isn't that what they do on the Bay now a days??

    Yeeeeah, yer right. I was trying to be sooo careful though!
    Quote Originally Posted by outback View Post
    You'd be surprised on how long it'll take ya to remove that with a 1000.
    I'd get it a little closer, like all but gone.
    I would say to do it now.
    Concentrate on going toward the toe from the chip.
    The razor seems to be honed a bit heel-heavy.
    Leave the heel/stabilizer alone?
    I can see the big/honkin tip, yet if you preserve that, what will the heel be like?
    Stabilizer work?
    Using this opportunity to square-up the blade whilst ridding the chip seems a positive, IMO

    So what if it is a measly 8/8? At least it will be proper.
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    Last edited by sharptonn; 01-04-2017 at 03:33 AM.

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    Senior Member blabbermouth ejmolitor37's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HARRYWALLY View Post
    Well, I'm still making a go of it. I'm nervous doing this to this specific blade. I really don't want to mess up the geometry and have things go wonky during the bevel set. That's my number 1 fear.
    I can understand completely. When I did the w&b fbu I have it had like 1/8" dinger. I was so nervous with that. You will do great I'm sure

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    I love Burls....... and Acrylic HARRYWALLY's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sharptonn View Post
    I would say to do it now.
    Concentrate on going toward the toe from the chip.
    The razor seems to be honed a bit heel-heavy.
    Leave the heel/stabilizer alone?
    I can see the big/honkin tip, yet if you preserve that, what will the heel be like? Stabilizer work?
    Using this opportunity to square-up the blade whilst ridding the chip seems a positive, IMO
    Yup, for sure. There's room in the direction of the toe. I definitely don't want to get into the stabilizers. I think I'm maxed out in that direction now.
    sharptonn likes this.
    Burls, Girls, and all things that Swirl....

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  10. #6507
    'with that said' cudarunner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sharptonn View Post
    I would say to do it now.
    Concentrate on going toward the toe from the chip.
    The razor seems to be honed a bit heel-heavy.
    Leave the heel/stabilizer alone?
    Using this opportunity to square-up the blade whilst ridding the chip seems a positive, IMO
    When Glen showed how to take a chip out when I first met him 5 years ago at the Spokane meet, he showed that you take the chip out until there is just a minor bit of it showing but it's still showing. That's when you start working on the honing which will finish taking that chip out.

    I think that Tom is correct in working from the chip toward the toe to save the heel. I also think that will help with the smile.

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  12. #6508
    Razor Vulture sharptonn's Avatar
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    Well, leaving a bit of chip in gives another goal! If you like those!
    I suppose it depends upon getting things completely straight as removing the chip. Getting it manageable and honing it out has some advantages, Yet you must work for them!

    It works.
    Different strokes!

    You fellas would be APPALLED at some of the things I do!
    Last edited by sharptonn; 01-04-2017 at 03:45 AM.

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    I love Burls....... and Acrylic HARRYWALLY's Avatar
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    Ya, I look at my pic, and then I look at yours Tom and I like what I see in your pics better. I'll bust it out again tomorrow and get it back on the 320.
    Burls, Girls, and all things that Swirl....

  14. #6510
    Razor Vulture sharptonn's Avatar
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    Some high-angle honing/dreaded breadboarding.
    It's there, gotta come from the toe. I can see it!
    I have all the faith in the world in you, Andrew.
    Get it on!

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