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Thread: What are you working on?
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10-29-2014, 06:04 PM #681
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10-29-2014, 06:12 PM #682
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Thanked: 2027
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10-29-2014, 06:38 PM #683
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Thanked: 4206I used the Birchwood Casey Super Blue in the 3 oz bottle from Lee Valley Tools.
I applied with an infant size q-tip to the desired areas after prepping the steel with 00 steel wool and white vinegar. The q-tip held enough solution to allow a full even pass on each side in one continuous stroke. After warming the steel, the bluing seemed to 'draw in' or blue faster and deeper. Rinsed the blade in water after 45 second soak per treatment and then I buffed with 00 S.W. and mineral oil. Three treatments in all to achieve the desired effect.
I have some seal bar Teflon tape I use for various projects and it has fantastic adhesion so I masked the areas I wanted blue-less and happily there was no migration under the tape edges.
Going to experiment with this treatment on a few other restoration projects. Every jimpless razor I have may get this done in time, if just for the improved grip in my fingers.
Cheers.
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10-29-2014, 06:39 PM #684
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Thanked: 2027Working up a long tall Bowl lathering brush.
CAUTION
Dangerous within 1 Mile
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11-01-2014, 02:57 AM #685
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- Aug 2013
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Thanked: 4206These three arrived tonight. That big one in the middle is the one I'm most psyched about.
Huge, for me, and it sings when you flick the point on so gently...
Oh an as an FYI,, its freakin snowing out now!!!
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11-01-2014, 03:00 AM #686
Taking pics of a blue-job is challenging. It never looks as good in pics as it does in person!
Never had an issue which requires using tape much. The Q-tip puts it where I want it!Last edited by sharptonn; 11-01-2014 at 03:03 AM.
"Don't be stubborn. You are missing out."
I rest my case.
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11-01-2014, 03:04 AM #687
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- Orangeville, Ontario
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Thanked: 4206
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11-01-2014, 03:07 AM #688
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11-01-2014, 08:15 PM #689
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11-01-2014, 08:32 PM #690
- Join Date
- Jan 2011
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- Roseville,Kali
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- 10,432
Thanked: 2027Trouble with cold blues is,they do not last.Cold blue carbon steel, Than rub your finger over it many times,it will come off.
Those that can get Nitric acid (I Cannot anymore) look into true Bluing of steel.Very time consuming,but it lasts,is true rust Bluing.
Real Bluing is a rusting process,apply, card it off with a wire brush,Neutrilize in hot water with Bicarb,start over again.
Used to take me 3 weeks to do a shotgun barrel working at it every day.CAUTION
Dangerous within 1 Mile
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The Following User Says Thank You to pixelfixed For This Useful Post:
Geezer (11-01-2014)