Mike--Here's a little cheat for you to support it without a tail stock.----> Use two tiny machinist jacks one on each side of your vise screw and put a parallel on them to support your brush handle.
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I ordered some more horn blanks from a domestic seller on Ebay -- the seller was recommended on this forum. The blanks arrived today, and they're bowed (I'm using the woodworkers' term, meaning they are bent lengthwise like a bow).
The bowing is pretty pronounced -- I couldn't make scales with them the way they are.
Is there a cure for this sort of thing, like can you steam the blanks and dry them flat? I would send them back but it's inconvenient to package and mail them and I'd be just as happy to fix the issue myself if I can. I'd be grateful for advice from anyone who's encountered it.
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The technique I describe for flattening warped scales works just as well on the blanks.
http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...ml#post1429233
Warm them up with a heat gun or a quick trip through a warm oven and them clamp them flat or put a weight on them. Also mark the convex side so you can make that the inside of the scales, because that is the natural direction they want to bow to. Do not over heat them, especially in a hot oven, you will not be happy with the result.
Thanks gentlemen, that is really helpful, I will try it this weekend.
Mike the walnut shaped up nicely, that's a neat set up. That's a great style for a brush and I'm looking forward to seeing what other shapes and forms that will be able to make. Good work!
Damn Mike, how many irons you got in the fire now. !!!
Not much here for scale work on the Packwood, I did get them cut, and shaped. But can't do much sanding as of yet with the tendonitis flaring in my right elbow.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...33dfe7e954.jpg
Bubbinga, for those that want to know.
Regarding those bowed blanks. Almost all my horn blanks looked like that as received.
I assume you will be thinning them down so consider that slight natural bow when planning the inside surface of your scales.
I use two sided tape to keep my blank flat to a strip of hard wood to run them flat against the grit sander. They are almost always flat before final profiling. And if there is a slight bow still, that works great towards the natural curve of the finished set, having both scales bow out then in from the wedge to pivot end.
Good luck whichever way you go as the straightening also works, but I only use it to straighten wavy stock, not nicely bowed ones like that.
:beer1:
When the wife's away, it's time to play Mike!
Garage is finally warm enough so I could try the indexer on the big drill press. Wasn't sure the spindle would be true enough on the old Beaver for lateral thrust. But it's solid, even extended! Probably not up to aluminum milling, but I will find that out later in the spring as the long game was to try to make aluminum rubberset clones eventually. At least one,, ;)
And I love those bubbinga scales! Great wood that..