Thread: What are you working on?

Originally Posted by Phrank

Would the tamahagane steel nakago portion of an old katana work for making a razor?

It depends. I was told that the high quality steel does not necessarily run the entire length of the nakago. It depends on the construction of the sword. It could work just fine. One way to figure it out is to heat treat it (it needs water quench) and see if it sparks similar to e.g something like 1075. If it does, it should make a fine razor.

Originally Posted by Phrank

Would the tamahagane steel nakago portion of an old katana work for making a razor?

It has been done in the past from a broken swords and daggers. The central core is of a harder steel similar to Norwegian and Swedish three layer steel.

Lots of info here; Nakago:
nakago/
Entire site, Home:
meiboku.info/guide

~Richard

Originally Posted by Geezer

It has been done in the past from a broken swords and daggers. The central core is of a harder steel similar to Norwegian and Swedish three layer steel.

Lots of info here; Nakago:
nakago/
Entire site, Home:
meiboku.info/guide

~Richard

+1. Check the 'customs and restoration' gallery.
You'll see a thread for my Tamahagane razor which was a repurposed broken daito (long sword) from the warring states period.

Originally Posted by shooter74743

ANyone know of an importer here in the U.S. that I can get some from as I would like to try it?

I got a piece from Dictum as well, they ship to Canada. And quickly.

Originally Posted by Bruno

+1. Check the 'customs and restoration' gallery.
You'll see a thread for my Tamahagane razor which was a repurposed broken daito (long sword) from the warring states period.

Yes - I saw that and frankly it blew me away, which also inspired me, so I'm waiting on confirmation, but I may have some segments of Tamahagane steel, the nakago portion from four old Katana's, they are beat up and old, but wanted to confirm the possibility (hopefully by you ) that it is feasible to make a straight razor from them.

With a bit of luck, yes. The part closest to the edge will probably be the best, since there will not be a sudden change. In other words, the part around the tsuba area will edge steel for several inches. And in all fairness, those bits will also be thicker, allowing you to work the geometry for a razor better.

Originally Posted by Bruno

With a bit of luck, yes. The part closest to the edge will probably be the best, since there will not be a sudden change. In other words, the part around the tsuba area will edge steel for several inches. And in all fairness, those bits will also be thicker, allowing you to work the geometry for a razor better.

Thanks Bruno - I'll post pics of the sections in a day or two, I have four sections, there is kanji on two of the tangs at least, I know you and several members here are quite versed in Japanese swords, so I'm just hoping they don't turn out to be frauds.

I'm sure you and some other's familiar with Japanese swords should have much better information...I went to the Japanese sword forum and did some looking around, but was a tad overwhelmed.

Originally Posted by Birnando

There are plenty of sites out there with info on the various White paper and Blue paper steels from Hitachi online.
The compositions can e.g. be seen on this page.
A bit down on the page.

Basically there are 2 White paper steels and three Blue.

White steel seems very popular in Japanese cutlery these days, and imho for good reason.
Properly heat treated they can easily take, and hold a superior edge for quite a long time.

About Steels,Japanese Knife,Japanese Kitchen Knife,Japanese Cutlery,Japanese Chef's Knives.Com

True. However the person using it also has to understand how to cut properly. Because it may chip when used improperly.

Just finish scaling this bad boy

W & B near wedge. It has been on the back burner because I hate working bone.