Thread: The Butchered Blade

The phig as it's sometimes called Mike is a bear to lap, but can produce a good finisher, depending on the rock. Big sweeps in quality/grit to deal with though so it's sort of like a lottery.
Lapping on a proper lapping plate or lapping block will get it back into order. Than you can decide if it's a keeper.
I have one that flattened out quite well. I haven't really taken the time to learn it though as I have other finishers I know I like so I tend to reach for those first, and only..
I have a big lapping plate I use with a 220 grit lapping compound that can tame any rock back to true. Then a normal wet paper progression takes it home.

Originally Posted by MikeB52

Is your buddy using TIG Tom?
Nice work so far on the fill job.
And then what? Drawing out the tail and creating a proper kamisori shape out of er?

Yeah, I think I need to swoop out the bottom first. Make the top match as done with that. The transition of the area of the stabilizer bugs me, though. Thinking maybey a rubber pen-grip situation. Like some of those Pumas.........

Old and newer, Henckels straight razors are the bomb, IMO.

Originally Posted by sharptonn

Yeah, I think I need to swoop out the bottom first. Make the top match as done with that. The transition of the area of the stabilizer bugs me, though. Thinking maybey a rubber pen-grip situation. Like some of those Pumas.........

That might work, sorta like the rubber grip on some kami's you see.
Look forward to seeing it develop.

I think black waxed thread tightly wound around the tang would look better, more kamisori style.
Too bad to lose the manufacturers mark, something sad about that.. but it is not that deep of a stamp if I remember right...?

Oh! MikeT, donna' wasta' the time 'onna that Escher with that Friodur. Tons of 12k and then CroOX, FME.

Originally Posted by MikeT

I think black waxed thread tightly wound around the tang would look better, more kamisori style.
Too bad to lose the manufacturers mark, something sad about that.. but it is not that deep of a stamp if I remember right...?

Therein lies the problem. Barely there. 'Sons' has already been lightened. Will see how it goes. Top and bottom come before side-to side. That's the plan..... The thread... yeah!

"Waxed" thread! I love the stuff. Holds a tight knot and doesnt come undone.. Is waterproof/resistant.
About the honing... I assumed Escher is about 12k...? wrong? And I was joking mostly, my knowledge of honing is just sad. CroOX? Whats that again? lol Ive never used it. On a strop paddle right? Okay guys when is the next gathering? Ill never learn these things otherwise.

Escher is rated finer than a 12k. Different subject, but I agree. However, modern stainless does not benefit from it much, FME.
Naturals never work on the hard stainless stuff, I think!

Chromium Oxide, MikeT. Miracle stuff. I will send you some!

MikeT, do you know how to wind a tail? thread must be run underneath of the wrap to tie-off.
I am thinking of as going with wrapped tang, some JB Weld to smooth the tang/stabilizer area may be good. Would be nice and even as-wrapped?

Maybe both the JB and the wrap.
The weld to smooth it all out nice nice, and then the wrap for the kami kiss o authenticity..
Could look pretty slick.
Regarding the henckel, my 72 inox seemed to like the BBW Coti Thuri diamond strop progression. At least to my unruly mug it felt nice.
I do appreciate the German steel. Always a good shave if the tool is well maintained..
I tend to reach for them more often than the others actually.