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Thread: The Butchered Blade
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09-18-2015, 10:18 PM #831
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Thanked: 4206"Depression is just anger,, without the enthusiasm."
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https://mobro.co/michaelbolton65?mc=5
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The Following User Says Thank You to MikeB52 For This Useful Post:
outback (09-19-2015)
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09-18-2015, 10:37 PM #832
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09-18-2015, 10:59 PM #833
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09-18-2015, 11:04 PM #834
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09-18-2015, 11:04 PM #835
Thanks for all the advise.
You can see the how much metal I had to remove to get the black pits.
With hindsight I should have taken a different route .However, I will clean it up fully and use it. I love the line it follows along the top. A slight smile and then arches at the tang. I've never liked 5/8ths but this one is good looking and quite heavy considering its size. I have a Dovo 5/8ths that I cant stand.
Tomorrow I will try a scourer with engine de greaser on the 6/8ths it has 2 deep black pits ,so far.
I've put a few hours in tonight on one side of the 6/8ths blade. Its near enough flat, shoulder to edge, I think from honing but I will get an edge on it.
How would you guys tackle this etching, I really want preserve it.
6/8th Etching
The flip side
Butchered Wade & Butcher
Edit:That crack in that blade is in the middle of the blade at the edge. Its a write off.Last edited by JOB15; 09-18-2015 at 11:22 PM.
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09-18-2015, 11:30 PM #836
MikeT, I didn't mean that in a bad way! I was just looking at the blade in reference to the scales but I know he would have to make a set of scales for it. I wouldn't dare cut those down with the inlay. I have the W&B I showed awhile back, might be in a different thread also but it is at about 2' & I have a Schrade I shortened to about 2 1/4.
If it is an acid etch, to you are very limited to what you can do with it. I wish I could find a thread on here that shows how to preserve an acid etch. It might be in this thread in an earlier post. I once used some 0000 steel wool & some WD40 or a penetrating oil so that it helps clean the blade w/o removing the etch but I would do it very lightly & see if it helps any. I need to see if I can find that article.
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The Following User Says Thank You to engine46 For This Useful Post:
JOB15 (09-18-2015)
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09-18-2015, 11:32 PM #837
Hey JOB15, you mean the etching on the tang? The W&B later on didnt have the deep stamps, and so you end up having to just leave the pitting on the tang alone. If it has rust there are rust removing solvents that work great to take the rust away without having to remove metel.
Looking good, those deep pits can be a pita being that the greaseless compound on grinder like to dig those pits out instead of level..
Looks like he got the reply out first... lol“You must unlearn what you have learned.”
– Yoda
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The Following User Says Thank You to MikeT For This Useful Post:
JOB15 (09-18-2015)
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09-18-2015, 11:36 PM #838
I know, I was just joking around.
But the inlay would not need to go right? Couldnt it be cut down from the pivot? Now I need to go back and look, I was sure it could be saved... ?
Edit: Just went back and looked, hell yeah the inlay will be saved. just cut a bit down from the pivot... It will look great.Last edited by MikeT; 09-18-2015 at 11:38 PM.
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09-18-2015, 11:39 PM #839
I don't think its acid etching. Doubt if they had acid back then
It dosnt say England so I think that means its early.
Plus the stamp is all over the place.
Just to the right of the lettering is some deep rust and I know there will be pitting there.
Edit. The really bad part will be covered by the scales. sweet
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09-18-2015, 11:45 PM #840
Okay!!!
I just finished... finally. Ive been having a hard time getting free time lately. I gotta go out to dinner but want to get these pics on here first.
Blade: W&B Celebrated FBU
Scales: 3700 year old Bog Wood
Wedge: Mammoth and brass sandwich
Salvaged Brass Collars
Hope you guys like it! The edge is not honed yet.“You must unlearn what you have learned.”
– Yoda
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