Thread: The Butchered Blade

Ya, Tony. They are not making any more, so used/Ebay or similar is the only way unless you luck up on one in the wild.

Originally Posted by sharptonn

I am going to take the weekend off as far as razors go, but have pieced together my next project.
A decent Barber's use wedge, 15/16 plus which has been straight-honed. It has chips in the edge. A bit of reprofile to get some smile back and honing the chips out. May be a 15/16 at the belly as I finish.
I did extensive epoxy work on these scales a few years ago. Need to add a bit of Sharpie, sand and texture, soak with neetsfoot.
Going to use Ajkenne's collars and Babur's underneath at the top as the pivot-holes are quite large.
Other than that, no bushings, spacers, nor any other tricks. I also have 2 thicknesses of wedges to try.
Will get on it early next week, I hope!

Attachment 212624

Hey Tom. I see you have room in that wedge for one more hole...?
Hmmm... Going to try and annie up on mike T...??
A TRIPPLE PIN WEDGE!!!!!
[emoji23] [emoji23] [emoji23] [emoji23] [emoji23] [emoji23] [emoji23] [emoji23] [emoji23]

Originally Posted by sharptonn

Ya, Tony. They are not making any more, so used/Ebay or similar is the only way unless you luck up on one in the wild.

Was scouting all the antique stores near me and none has so much as a sniff of a SR.

Originally Posted by JOB15

Many thanks.

I was thinking of trying the Dremel solid sleeve type sander. I used it on my Motorcycle exhaust system and it ate the metal away quite violently .

I did wonder what that wheel you show was for, now I know.

The only issue is that I will lose the arrow head and cross completely of the W&B symbol but I think I'd rather that than have black parts.
I have some compound for cars , I will use that pre polish. In fact I will use the Dremel then get back to the hand sanding progression .

Thanks again. I will post finished pictures. I have 4 W&B to mess about with at the moment.

JOB15
You might take Sharptonn's advice. You might try a little Mothers or Maas on a Dremel like I did here to polish it up some if you're just cleaning the tang. I the blade, I would practice on some junk blades first & understand how a Dremel can ruin a blade in a heartbeat if you don't watch which way the tool is spinning. I actually learned from Lynn's dvd where he shows a little on restoration but you want the tool to be spinning away from the blade & not towards it, even if going from end to end. I wouldn't recommend using it on the blade right now unless you practice on some junk blades first. You can see here:

http://straightrazorpalace.com/membe...me-polish.html

If you use sandpaper, I have 240 grit up to 3000 grit & I sand in progressions. For heavy scratches & pitting I start with 240 & move up one by one, 280, 320, 360, 400, 500, 600, 800, 1000, 1200, 1500, 2000, 2500 & 3000 grit. If your arrw is disappearing though, you might try some polish & hand polish at first. If Your Dremel is variable speed, you could put a little polish on the tang & put it on a low speed & try it a few seconds. It won't eat it up. I've actually gotten away with hand polishing a few times starting out with a heavily tarnished blade & using the polish with a soft rag & polishing making it a mirror polish. My foist straight was that way, a W&B bow razor which you can see in the razor club, "Show Us Your First Straight Razor".

[QUOTE=outback;1543356]Dont sand the stamp on the tang , wire wheel and polish. Not wide open throttle either. [emoji6]
The wire brush isnt going to hurt good steel, on the tang.
What sanding progression are you at ( grt. Paper)

PS. These i only use for shaping scales, and major surgery , after amputation of a broken toe, to round off the end of the spine.
They are evil for anything else.
JMO



Mike, same here, I use that exact same piece for either grinding out a chip or I use one of those or my belt sander to finish an amputation job.

Originally Posted by Thug

Was scouting all the antique stores near me and none has so much as a sniff of an SR.

Check old barber shops, estate sales, flea markets, yard sales in old towns( rare, but if you know what i meen by old towns) they can be gold mines, you may have to ask them if they have any.
Since they might not of thought about selling them. Alot say yes they have one or two , but their heirlooms. Never hurts to ask.

I'm currently waiting for a guy with a seven day set he wants to sell me. But he has to get it down out the attic so he and I can look at it.,
And come up with a price.VIA condition of the set and what brand they are.
He also told me he had a 7 set in MOP, but he's not selling it.

That was just by asking at a yard sale!!!!
True RAD, opens alot of avenues.
YMMV

Originally Posted by outback

Hey Tom. I see you have room in that wedge for one more hole...?
Hmmm... Going to try and annie up on mike T...??
A TRIPPLE PIN WEDGE!!!!!
[emoji23] [emoji23] [emoji23] [emoji23] [emoji23] [emoji23] [emoji23] [emoji23] [emoji23]

TBH, outback, the wedge with 2 holes is original to these scales. In the right light, you can see where the wedge end was broken across the pin-hole. Someone had beaten an iron nail through to hold it all together.



A thread with some pics of it before I began and the process to repair is here. http://straightrazorpalace.com/custo...-butchers.html
In fact, that round-pointed blade I restored above was spoils from this old thread as well!

Originally Posted by outback

Check old barber shops, estate sales, flea markets, yard sales in old towns( rare, but if you know what i meen by old towns) they can be gold mines, you may have to ask them if they have any.
Since they might not of thought about selling them. Alot say yes they have one or two , but their heirlooms. Never hurts to ask.

I'm currently waiting for a guy with a seven day set he wants to sell me. But he has to get it down out the attic so he and I can look at it.,
And come up with a price.VIA condition of the set and what brand they are.
He also told me he had a 7 set in MOP, but he's not selling it.

That was just by asking at a yard sale!!!!
True RAD, opens alot of avenues.
YMMV

Mike, that's one of my things.................it never hurts to ask. The worst that can happen is they'll say no!

Originally Posted by sharptonn

TBH, outback, the wedge with 2 holes is original to these scales. In the right light, you can see where the wedge end was broken across the pin-hole. Someone had beaten an iron nail through to hold it all together.



A thread with some pics of it before I began and the process to repair is here. http://straightrazorpalace.com/custo...-butchers.html

Tom, I have seen that on some older straights & a couple I know I have have that hidden pin inside to keep the wedge from turning!

I have a couple of older Sheffield's that have that hidden pin in the wedge end. both are under the outside washer so they're not noticed. I found them when I disassembled the razor for some extended work.

evaporust is a product that works well to dissolve black rust without affecting the good steel.
I wouldn't soak in it any more, tried that and did not like the results, but to apply with a toothbrush repeatedly over time seems to work really well to save tang marks that are barely left.
YMMV.
Cheers.