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Thread: The Butchered Blade

  1. #801
    Senior Member MikeT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeB52 View Post
    Neat idea on the amber Mike. Would make a cool wedge for sure. Have you tried slowest speed and cutting fluid while drilling it? Wish I had some, I would give it a go myself. Basically just fossilized tree sap as I understand it so if I were to compare it to glass a diamond bit might do it.
    That mammoth ivory is not a bad second choice my any stretch! Looks good!
    Hey you want to try amber? I'll throw some other goodies in there too pm me your info.
    MikeB52 and outback like this.
    “You must unlearn what you have learned.”
    – Yoda

  2. #802
    Razor Vulture sharptonn's Avatar
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    Looking good, MikeT! I dig that lined look on the wedge.
    engine46 and MikeT like this.
    "Don't be stubborn. You are missing out."
    I rest my case.

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  4. #803
    www.edge-dynamics.com JOB15's Avatar
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    Default 2nd Restoration.

    Hi, I'm working on my second restoration, another W&B.

    It's a 5/8th . Scales are dead but I've kept one half as a stencil .

    At the moment I'm sanding it with 400 grit paper.

    On the tang there is deep pitting with black inside, around the W&B logo.

    Whilst sanding I noticed a few of the arrow feathers disappearing, so I stopped and decided to live with the pits. I cant seem to remove the black within the pits though.

    I did try the Dremel with compound to see what would happen , but no joy.

    Any advise?

    Many thanks.

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    Edit: No problem. I Googled it. Either sand it away or live with it.
    Last edited by JOB15; 09-18-2015 at 05:16 PM.
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  6. #804
    Senior Member blabbermouth outback's Avatar
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    Hey glad to have you aboard.
    Do you have a wire wheel for your dremmel.
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    If you do , try that.
    Rotation of wheel should be away from pitt. Then turn blade either clockwise or counter clockwise while doing little circles with the dremmel.
    Hopfully you understand what im saying.
    Then you can use a rag wheel and metal polish to brighten it back up.
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    If you have any CR/OX. CRAYON, that will help even more, before the polish
    Last edited by outback; 09-18-2015 at 05:39 PM.
    Mike

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  8. #805
    Razor Vulture sharptonn's Avatar
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    Hey, Job15! It is surprising how well an old toothbrush and some scouring powder works getting down in places.
    "Don't be stubborn. You are missing out."
    I rest my case.

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  10. #806
    www.edge-dynamics.com JOB15's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by outback View Post
    Hey glad to have you aboard.
    Do you have a wire wheel for your dremmel.

    If you do , try that.
    Rotation of wheel should be away from pitt. Then turn blade either clockwise or counter clockwise while doing little circles with the dremmel.
    Hopfully you understand what im saying.
    Then you can use a rag wheel and metal polish to brighten it back up.

    If you have any CR/OX. CRAYON, that will help even more, before the polish
    Many thanks.

    I was thinking of trying the Dremel solid sleeve type sander. I used it on my Motorcycle exhaust system and it ate the metal away quite violently .

    I did wonder what that wheel you show was for, now I know.

    The only issue is that I will lose the arrow head and cross completely of the W&B symbol but I think I'd rather that than have black parts.
    I have some compound for cars , I will use that pre polish. In fact I will use the Dremel then get back to the hand sanding progression .

    Thanks again. I will post finished pictures. I have 4 W&B to mess about with at the moment.
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  11. #807
    Senior Member blabbermouth outback's Avatar
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    Dont sand the stamp on the tang , wire wheel and polish. Not wide open throttle either. [emoji6]
    The wire brush isnt going to hurt good steel, on the tang.
    What sanding progression are you at ( grt. Paper)

    PS. These i only use for shaping scales, and major surgery , after amputation of a broken toe, to round off the end of the spine.
    They are evil for anything else.
    JMO
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    Mike

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  13. #808
    Razor Vulture sharptonn's Avatar
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    I am going to take the weekend off as far as razors go, but have pieced together my next project.
    A decent Barber's use wedge, 15/16 plus which has been lightly re-ground and straight-honed. It has chips in the edge. A bit of reprofile to get some smile back and honing the chips out. May be a 15/16 at the belly as I finish.
    I did extensive epoxy work on these scales a few years ago. Need to add a bit of Sharpie, sand and texture, soak with neetsfoot.
    Going to use Ajkenne's collars and Babur's underneath at the top as the pivot-holes are quite large.
    Other than that, no bushings, spacers, nor any other tricks. I also have 2 thicknesses of wedges to try.
    Will get on it early next week, I hope!

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    Last edited by sharptonn; 09-19-2015 at 12:02 AM.
    "Don't be stubborn. You are missing out."
    I rest my case.

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    MikeB52 (09-18-2015)

  15. #809
    Senior Member blabbermouth Thug's Avatar
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    I suppose the only way to find old W&B and Geo. Wostenholm's is to keep an eye out on Ebay.
    Tony

  16. #810
    Senior Member blabbermouth outback's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sharptonn View Post
    Hey, Job15! It is surprising how well an old toothbrush and some scouring powder works getting down in places.
    I like that! A little more aggressive than what I use.
    Tooth brush&paste, mix baking soda in with the paste.
    Very mild in comparison, I would think.
    Hmmm.... Another progression, in restoration!!!
    sharptonn likes this.
    Mike

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