Thread: The Butchered Blade

Originally Posted by MikeB52

evaporust is a product that works well to dissolve black rust without affecting the good steel.
I wouldn't soak in it any more, tried that and did not like the results, but to apply with a toothbrush repeatedly over time seems to work really well to save tang marks that are barely left.
YMMV.
Cheers.

MikeB52, your scales are in the mailbox awaiting pickup. Oh Mike, BTW, I forgot to put some nickel rod in there with some small stainless collars I have so I grabbed it from the mailbox & added those in there along with 2 brass thrust washers which you can use if you want. That's your option. I hammered them thinner on my anvil from .015" to .095"-.010" & I drilled the holes back for the nickel rod to fit through & sanded them smooth. The stainless collars are .1155-.116 in diameter but look like 1/8". I got it all back in the mailbox.

Originally Posted by sharptonn

Hey, Job15! It is surprising how well an old toothbrush and some scouring powder works getting down in places.

Your post arrived after I'd dremeled the life out of those pits.

They were deep and even when I thought I'd finished I later found there were still black spots. It took pressure and full speed to finally get there.
I removed quite a bit of metal. There is the odd deep pit on the blades face also, so its never gonna be perfect but I think its gonna shave well.

I bought a lot of three because one, a delicate 5/8th had no hone ware , perfect condition . Unfortunately there is a split from the edge going upwards 5mm worth.

The other 2, a 5/8ths which has the black pits and a 6/8th old type with a skew whiff notch and plenty of hone ware.

Its like honing, I'm addicted. Wait until I hit all of London's antique shops

This one has the crack. Shame.



6/8ths

Originally Posted by JOB15

Your post arrived after I'd dremeled the life out of those pits.

They were deep and even when I thought I'd finished I later found there were still black spots. It took pressure and full speed to finally get there.
I removed quite a bit of metal. There is the odd deep pit on the blades face also, so its never gonna be perfect but I think its gonna shave well.

I bought a lot of three because one, a delicate 5/8th had no hone ware , perfect condition . Unfortunately there is a split from the edge going upwards 5mm worth.

The other 2, a 5/8ths which has the black pits and a 6/8th old type with a skew whiff notch and plenty of hone ware.

Its like honing, I'm addicted. Wait until I hit all of London's antique shops

This one has the crack. Shame.



6/8ths

Where is the crack located. If near the toe make a shorty out of it.

Thats what this thread is about.
The hone wear,tired, worn out, and broken, that can be brought back to a useful state.

Did you throw your car away, just cause the bummper is rusty, and the fender is dented.
Why i sure dont, cant afford a shiny new one. Same for razors.

But we always gawk at that vintage car or truck going down the road......
Don't we...

JOB15, you'll be ok. I think Tom must be busy but you'll get the hang of it I'm sure. Be careful with the Dremel. Like I said, try it on some junk blades first if you have any.
It's ashamed that one has about a 5mm crack but you can fix that & it will be a little shorter. It will be okay also once you're done with it. Nothing wrong with a shorty.
For rust, the EVAPO-RUST MikeB52 mentioned is good but you don't want to leave it in there for long periods of time. I have actually used that stuff in an ultrasonic cleaner & it worked well except for heavy rust.

I have halted the surgery on the brothers Griffin.

MikeT has sent me a request razor. He says, chop it down, and make it work again.!
I see a 5/8 round point, edge length,a mear 1 5/8".

Scales, shortened, reshaped, and drilled for pivot pin.

Overall length, 4 3/4" with scales attached.

[QUOTE=outback;1543415]I have halted the surgery on the brothers Griffin.

MikeT has sent me a request razor. He says, chop it down, and make it work again.!
I see a 5/8 round point, edge length,a mear 1 5/8".

Scales, shortened, reshaped, and drilled for pivot pin.

Overall length, 4 3/4" with scales attached.


Mike, I agree, it would be too short.

Steve,, I should have just sent you the blade
Appreciate all the energies spent..

Let's find out Steve.
Hey if anything, it's gonna look cool.
When in hand and thinking about the shave, I think it'll work.
Especially for that weird spot on the neck, that ya can't do a ATG on. [emoji6]

Originally Posted by outback

Let's find out Steve.
Hey if anything, it's gonna look cool.
When in hand and thinking about the shave, I think it'll work.
Especially for that weird spot on the neck, that ya can't do a ATG on. [emoji6]

A spanish point shorty Mike maybe? Would have the same blade length left and look badazz as a beard/stache trimmer.. JMO.

[emoji51] scary, seen a couple vids of guys shaving with shorties like that.

They needed mike there to sew their faces back together [emoji23] [emoji23] [emoji23]

The one had his shaped like a single edged razor blade, being his was broke at heal and toe.
If he wasn't carving his face with the heal, it was the toe.....
And he just kept going, like a idiot..? No points here!!