Thread: The Butchered Blade

Originally Posted by Matheus

Yes, same thing. Vinylic resin, I believe. Have not the original packaging, a friend of mine who repairs and builds fishing rods gave me a little.

Thanks brother

Originally Posted by engine46

Cool! I think outback mentioned it in a longer post in this thread quite a ways back but that opens a new world for me fixing some scales like that!

Yep! Sure did...
CA has a tendency to crack, from the scales flexing when openung and closing. And I thought about the flex coat.

Hi.
I won this blade the other day and I'm wondering what size and grind it is.

Maybe you guys have see these before.

I have to wait for it to arrive from the states and go through customs which takes years or at least it feels like it.

I haven't a clue how to deal with these kind of scales either.

The seller told me a nice story about the blades history which makes it more meaningful to me. I cant wait to get my hands on it.

Turtle shell is not porous as wood, so CA glue would only be messy. The CA is way too brittle to work OK with the flexibility of the scales, and the finishing would be too glassy. The soft feeling at touch would be lost. So is the common epoxy or phenolic resins. Flex coat was my choice.
Still don't know if it will work. If the pivot part of the scale still cracks when pinning, I'll have to be more aggressive, and embed a bridge (#), with the pivot point in the middle in the medial face of the scale. If I had some spare sheet of turtle 2 or three inches long , I'd just chop (aslant, as a wedge) the pivot extremity off and bond a new piece there.
If I was still living at Sao Paulo would'd be a chore to find a piece (a hair clasp, broken comb, whatever), but Goiânia is a 80 Y.O. town and things older than this is a PITA to obtain here.

Originally Posted by ChopperDave

I was wondering if you could use greaseless with a Dremel. Just using polish leaves shiny pits...

I've been using greaseless and the harder blocks (dry finishing compound) with the Dremel for some time now. It works but mostly on hard to get places as it is hard to remove the steel evenly. But I've only used it once on a whole blade and after seeing outback do it plan on giving it another go. It's great on the stabilizer and other spots that the table mounted buffer has a hard time getting.

Originally Posted by sharptonn

So we did pretty well on the anvil SOTD's, eh? EH?

I had 2 ask me if I painted that on the front of mine! Had to confess that was the reflection of a confederate rose next to it!

Shiny!

Tom...
You came real close to having yours painted like the rebel flag.
But i didn't have the paint to do it.

Originally Posted by outback

Tom...
You came real close to having yours painted like the rebel flag.

Rebel?!? You mean southern patriots battling northern aggression!

What ever...
Now it's world aggression,
And were all in the fight

Job, I don't think the scales on that one are original. Still, if they are not cracked under the bolsters, they are usually easy to work with as the bolsters add strength to the area of peening.

Hey Job, nice find. I'm guessing 5 or 6/8 blade and greater than half hollow. Just a guess mind you..
Sweet bolsters, classic look.