Thread: The Butchered Blade

Oh man that sounds like a fun quick project!
I've thought about it, have some thin inlays that I want to transplant.. one is a black demon. I have two, one has the metallic inlay, and one just cheap etching on celluloid scales..
I figure CA. I've seen it done on various scales. Figured I would put masking tape down to get the placement right..
Getting just the right amount of CA on the inlay.. so as not to have unsightly CA pushing out on the edges... that's the hard part I think.
Thought about heating the inlay up and pressing it in... but that would possibly displace plastic and leave razed edges. Don't know if those could be sanded off though..
I'm very interested in seeing how this turns out.
Also very interested in seeing Glen's tutorial on it as he is very skilled too.

Attachment 216214

Dr. Sharptonn
Fingers crossed.

Originally Posted by prodigy

I ran into the same issue when making scales for my henckels #14. I saved the inlay, but did not have any clue how to attach it to the new ebony scales. I just left it off for now, the blade is with glen now. He should be making a sort of tutorial, so I'm excited to see what he had to do to get it centered.

Look for people who operantes CNC laser cutting machines. These people can save you many hours of very freaking delicate work. Spare material similar to the final material to be recessed is a must to test depth of recessão given by distinct laser beam potencies.

Yeah, My laser buddy and all 180 people at a large oilfield-related shop recently were all told to go. No severance, no warning.
Every piece of equipment was auctioned off. Dismal down here. My shop is dead. Here I sit working on butchered razors!
Anyhoo, it seems it will have to go low on the scale to fit.


Mike's thought on tape to locate it is a good one, I think!

Gee, I have looked around. Everyone is an expert at getting them off. No one has shared how they put them on.
The Reaper tute shows 'look what I did', but not how. They were also using wood scales. I suppose it is one of those top-secret deals we have around here.

I have thought about CA-ing a toothpick to the top of the inlay as a handle with a dot of glue which can be removed easily.
Spread some CA on a flat surface and dip the inlay onto it, pull it off fast and stick it onto the scale, using another toothpick to push it down here and there. Thoughts?

Very cool inlay saveTom. Never tried, but will now. I have the dorko logo on the broken bits from the one Steve helped with to put onto the 444 when it's done.

Now as far as the replacement, masking tape test run is a great idea. What I used to do for exacting decal replacement in aviation included that, but also we used scotch tape to hold the decals A, or outside surface, twined the scotch tape between our fingers on both hands so it was held by the index finger and went over the knuckle of the first fingers, both hands, then we could hover the decal over where we wanted it applied and touch it to the surface with either thumb when we were ready to commit. Then the tape came off the top.
Hope that makes sense..

THAT sounds a winner, Mike! Masking tape. So. how to apply the glue to the inlay. Not get it too thick. Do it fast all over.
Stick it down before it cures.

Chevhead has been seen poking around down here. Him and his ducks.......
Gonna give him a shout!

Originally Posted by sharptonn

THAT sounds a winner, Mike! Masking tape. So. how to apply the glue to the inlay. Not get it too thick. Do it fast all over.
Stick it down before it cures.

Chevhead has been seen poking around down here. Him and his ducks.......
Gonna give him a shout!

Oh boy.... There is a LOT of trial and error!
At least there was for me....still is actually....

For removing the inlays I would NOT soak them in acetone.

I brush it on to the scales and use a dental pick to get behind them and loosen them and keep brushing on more acetone.
Takes about 1-2 minutes to get 99% of them off.
Some others might take up to 5 minutes, or you might HAVE to soak them if they are being a PITA!

Originally Posted by prodigy

There are several, but I find them to be more confusing than helpful. Not to say they aren't useful, it's just frustrating when you try something and it makes things worse rather than better. I learn better by doing, or watching, and not so well by reading. I feel the only true way to make the issue right would be to straighten the tang, rather than accommodate the scales to fit in said warped razor. The last razor I tried that on snapped, and I got that info straight from one of the tutorials (no warning of breaking razors mentioned). I also don't trust myself to heat a tang to Temps high enough to bend it back without ruining it, so with every option I always end up back at square one. Hopefully I can find some less expensive warped blades that I can fool around with, that would be perfect

Clint Eastwood said it best....
A mans got to know his limitations

Originally Posted by Chevhead

Oh boy.... There is a LOT of trial and error!
At least there was for me....still is actually....

For removing the inlays I would NOT soak them in acetone.

I brush it on to the scales and use a dental pick to get behind them and loosen them and keep brushing on more acetone.
Takes about 1-2 minutes to get 99% of them off.
Some others might take up to 5 minutes, or you might HAVE to soak them if they are being a PITA!

Thanks, Chev! If you look above, I have it off......Want to put it on another scale!