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Thread: The Butchered Blade

  1. #3051
    Razor Vulture sharptonn's Avatar
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    HAR! I was implying that those blades are quite thin, but YES! Those ivories are thin as well!
    "Don't be stubborn. You are missing out."
    I rest my case.

  2. #3052
    Senior Member blabbermouth outback's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by prodigy View Post
    They are paper thin! I was so scared taking them apart. I was in the zone, steady as a brain surgeon! The blade does have some rust, but I think after I hit it with the 600 grease less it shouldn't be too bad. It's not the deep, cavity inducing rust, it's the surface kind.

    Attachment 220726
    Attachment 220727
    I personally would go 4 or 600 w/d paper, before greaseless IMO.
    Just so it wont dig in and make anything worse, should there be deep pit hiding underneath the surface rust. YMMV
    sharptonn, engine46 and MikeT like this.
    Mike

  3. #3053
    32t
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    Quote Originally Posted by WW243 View Post
    Welllllll, it's about time I kicked down the door of the vocational wing over here and post one of my projects.
    This is something that has dogged me for years. You see, I have this loupe and from the closed position you can't tell which side is right ways up. And there is a right ways up. So I got to thinking about sticking stuff on stuff like ya'll do over here and...here 'tis
    Before
    Attachment 220684
    And After
    Attachment 220685
    I want to thank SWMBO for her anonymous donation of clear nail polish.
    PM me if any of you need any tips on the process.
    I hope this convinces outback Mike that I am not a slacker.
    ,,,,,,,,
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  4. #3054
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    Well scotchbrite cleaned up the gunk 100%. The other stuff is staining, and since it's on the insides I'm going to leave it as is.

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  5. #3055
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    Quote Originally Posted by outback View Post
    I personally would go 4 or 600 w/d paper, before greaseless IMO.
    Just so it wont dig in and make anything worse, should there be deep pit hiding underneath the surface rust. YMMV
    I've never had an issue with the 600 grease less digging in. Once it dries on the buffing wheel it's almost the same as sandpaper (at least to me). I soaked it in wd40 and hit it with a wire brush for little but and most of it broke off.

    My 400 w/d is never far so as I was writing this I hit for 30 seconds or so. Looks like one pit with some smaller surface spots.

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  6. #3056
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    I've never had to reshape a heel before, but this razor needs it badly. I've already made it better, just wondering of this looks like it should be good, or take some more off.

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  7. #3057
    Razor Vulture sharptonn's Avatar
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    You seem OK! Just get that point off on the side of the hone on occasion!
    Swoop it!
    "Don't be stubborn. You are missing out."
    I rest my case.

  8. #3058
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    Yea that's just the remnants of why I needed to reshape the heel. Should go away on its on now that the geometry is back on track. Thanks
    engine46 and outback like this.

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    Str8Faced Gent. MikeB52's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sharptonn View Post
    You seem OK! Just get that point off on the side of the hone on occasion!
    Swoop it!
    +1 to that. Got it right!
    Nice work so far man.
    Never worked with ivory,, yet..
    "Depression is just anger,, without the enthusiasm."
    Steven Wright
    https://mobro.co/michaelbolton65?mc=5

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    For those of you who use greaseless compounds, what are you using after the 600 grit? That's the highest frit they seem to come in. I'm tired of hand sanding after 600 greaseless. All the black and gray and brown compounds from at least three different companies I've tried don't seem to do anything to 600 grit scratch marks. They work fine after about 1200 grit w/d, but this is driving me nuts!

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