Thread: The Butchered Blade

Like I told you, outback. Stuff is quite radical. In using the felt buffs, If they start out at 7/8 like the new ones I sent you and, after being cleaned off and reloaded, they lose a bit of diameter each time on a grinding/ wire wheel to remove worn compound/glue in order to reload.
Smaller wheels are handy, I know some who use big wheels and even some about 3 inches on a dremel, even. I dunno, stuff is pretty radical!
Just have to use discretion with them and not try to do too much at once. Finer, the better, IMO. I like the 600 on spines, tangs, and light blade work. Knock the speed down, stay away from the edge, keep it moving, cool the blade. Don't use them much, but do use them!
The coarse grits will go to town and make lots of heat, fast!

Originally Posted by sharptonn

Like I told you, outback. Stuff is quite radical. In using the felt buffs, If they start out at 7/8 like the new ones I sent you and, after being cleaned off and reloaded, they lose a bit of diameter each time on a grinding/ wire wheel to remove worn compound/glue in order to reload.
Smaller wheels are handy, I know some who use big wheels and even some about 3 inches on a dremel, even. I dunno, stuff is pretty radical!
Just have to use discretion with them and not try to do too much at once. Finer, the better, IMO. I like the 600 on spines, tangs, and light blade work. Knock the speed down, stay away from the edge, keep it moving, cool the blade. Don't use them much, but do use them!
The coarse grits will go to town and make lots of heat, fast!

Yeah, I would like to use my Dremel on them. It wouldn't take as much. I don't have those size wheels for my Dremel but I imagine I could find some.

Originally Posted by outback

It basically like a sanding drum but flexible. Careful though , it removes metal quick, so don't stop moving or you'll grind a divot in the blade for sure.

Hey can you get a picture of these wheels you used. I've got various ones and am getting ready to tackle those j.Rodgers.. can't ready do it by hand sanding, deep pits, with the blade stamps its really hard to get around.. so I'm going greaseless with the Dremel. Done it before, gotta be careful and like you said don't stop moving, keep it even, its challenging to do it right.

Originally Posted by sharptonn

Like I told you, outback. Stuff is quite radical. In using the felt buffs, If they start out at 7/8 like the new ones I sent you and, after being cleaned off and reloaded, they lose a bit of diameter each time on a grinding/ wire wheel to remove worn compound/glue in order to reload.
Smaller wheels are handy, I know some who use big wheels and even some about 3 inches on a dremel, even. I dunno, stuff is pretty radical!
Just have to use discretion with them and not try to do too much at once. Finer, the better, IMO. I like the 600 on spines, tangs, and light blade work. Knock the speed down, stay away from the edge, keep it moving, cool the blade. Don't use them much, but do use them!
The coarse grits will go to town and make lots of heat, fast!

Thats the bosses honest truth on that. Fo sho. [emoji6]
Yeah... The 600 is pretty sweet.
But the 180 is perfect for most tough spots..

Originally Posted by MikeT

Hey can you get a picture of these wheels you used. I've got various ones and am getting ready to tackle those j.Rodgers.. can't ready do it by hand sanding, deep pits, with the blade stamps its really hard to get around.. so I'm going greaseless with the Dremel. Done it before, gotta be careful and like you said don't stop moving, keep it even, its challenging to do it right.

Just for you buddy...
Ya know.... Its 30 some degrees out here ..... And I'm taken pics for ya.
Pal.

[QUOTE=outback;1555331]Just for you buddy...
Ya know.... Its 30 some degrees out here ..... And I'm taken pics for ya.
Pal.

Those wheels! I used one before with Maas but I never thought of using greaseless on 'em. Ya learn something everyday!

Originally Posted by outback

Just for you buddy...
Ya know.... Its 30 some degrees out here ..... And I'm taken pics for ya.
Pal.

Thanks man! Now that's some serious dedication to the crew... Okay sweet, I've got a bunch of those, usually use them with greaseless and also the dry block compound on stabilizers and hard to hit spots... But for the whole week was wondering if using them on the whole blade would F it up.. good to see someone do it. Those J.Rogers for the Weekender are gonna be a challenge.
Nice rack!

Looking through my daily shavers, my W&B celebrated FBU is my only smiling blade that I have shave ready. In fact I've shaved with blades that have slight curves but this is my first time shaving with a true smiler.. and I love it!
This is my favorite straight razor now. And Tom honed it to perfection! He is a true hone meister. But don't tell anybody because I'm sure he doesn't want everybody and their immediate family asking him to hone... hehehe
Anyway, thanks again boss!

Originally Posted by MikeT

Thanks man! Now that's some serious dedication to the crew... Okay sweet, I've got a bunch of those, usually use them with greaseless and also the dry block compound on stabilizers and hard to hit spots... But for the whole week was wondering if using them on the whole blade would F it up.. good to see someone do it. Those J.Rogers for the Weekender are gonna be a challenge.
Nice rack!

Stay away from the edge though.
Their great for under the spine .
JMHO

Originally Posted by MikeT

Looking through my daily shavers, my W&B celebrated FBU is my only smiling blade that I have shave ready. In fact I've shaved with blades that have slight curves but this is my first time shaving with a true smiler.. and I love it!
This is my favorite straight razor now. And Tom honed it to perfection! He is a true hone meister. But don't tell anybody because I'm sure he doesn't want everybody and their immediate family asking him to hone... hehehe
Anyway, thanks again boss!

Ya, honing is a pain! Man, that Searsasori is like shaving with a DE blade! I won't need a shave for a few days yet!

Originally Posted by outback

Stay away from the edge though.
Their great for under the spine .
JMHO

Outback is getting the jist of it. With a steady hand and light touch you can pull the hone wear up from the bottom evenly and narrow the hone wear up on a spine. It's still there, just thinner.
OR you can screw one up pretty easily!
Junk blades and practice......