Thread: The Butchered Blade

Originally Posted by sharptonn

Steve got a pile of them online. I am certain he will tell us where. I have not looked at Ace Hardware....
We have one down the street, however. I shall look next time I am in there!

Miniature stainless steel drawers

Originally Posted by Geezer

I use them and I found that a small (~2/2") piece of 0.010-0.020 shim brass with a hole/s of the right sizes in it can be a great tool to keep the polish where it belongs. Group the holes so your other hand can hold it to the scale.
~Richard

Also, to get the 'look', I dome the pins as pointed as possible as-peening and use this to run a sanding-block on the top to get a nice 'flat' on top before polishing. It seems I cannot polish the things as-effectively with a shim collarless, but the ones with regular collars, I use Richard's method a lot.




Also, an old thread with lots of ideas and input , http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...ing-ivory.html

Also, another old thread where I used the washers; http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...le-halves.html

Originally Posted by outback

Miniature stainless steel drawers

I sometimes envy you people in the States - but then I remember Donald and Hilary.

Originally Posted by UKRob

I sometimes envy you people in the States - but then I remember Donald and Hilary.

Ain't it the truth, Jamie! The last 10 years has been a political shit-show that dominates everything.
It's all about this generation on entitlements and 'special needs'.
Nobody seems to want to roll up the sleeves and work. Gimmee gimmee society. Paid protesters, just a mess.
I digress.........

Originally Posted by MikeB52

Shaun, I agree that the slight 'catching' at the edge of the peen bugs me and is what keeps me tapping them till they are flush, or flush at the edges.

Looking at images of collarless razors on the net, they all seem similar to the ivory one Tom zoomed in on showing a very clear dome still so I think flush is purely a personal decision, not the norm from old builders. I do like the look though.

Sanding them flush I think would risk marring the scale surface unless you were going all the way back up in grits. In which case, no problem. it's an idea I might try if I leave too much pin and know there is no more room to spread inside the scales.
Also pretty sure true collarless will only work well on hard scale stock. Softer stuff probably won't draw tight enough without splitting. At least that's my thinking Based on experience so far..

Do you guys anneal your pin stock ends? Do you have beading/stone setting/ tools ? If not, I can help you get the collarless pins set with about 100% success, they will bead up like Magic. guess I'll have to take some pics.

Originally Posted by FAL

Do you guys anneal your pin stock ends? Do you have beading/stone setting/ tools ? If not, I can help you get the collarless pins set with about 100% success, they will bead up like Magic. guess I'll have to take some pics.

Please!!!!
Enquiring minds want to know. [emoji3]

Originally Posted by FAL

Do you guys anneal your pin stock ends? Do you have beading/stone setting/ tools ? If not, I can help you get the collarless pins set with about 100% success, they will bead up like Magic. guess I'll have to take some pics.

I always anneal the ends as going collarless. Makes the job go much easier. A little demo is in the link I posted above.

I would also like to see your technique!

Different little project going on up here after reading about successes with vibratory cleaners. I used mechanical blast cleaners in automotive paint shops back in my younger days and they used flingers and zinc beads to do the dirty work, and we used vibratory sifters to sort the cleaning particles for reuse. We also used ceramic triangle shapes to clean the sifter sieves and so I thought I'd get a few different grits of that stuff and use it before the traditional walnut and corn as a little test to see if the vibrator would do the grunt cleaning, as well as the polishing if left alone long enough to do its thing.
So, I started with silica sand for shot blasting called white Lightning

And one of the test blades. This picture was after shaking in the dry sand for 6 hrs.
and same one after 24 hrs.
these are the two kinds of ceramic grits

First one, the m grit I added a half cup of evaporust to it as the ceramic is known as wet media.
and the test blades after 24 hrs agitation.

and what the brine looked like after the first round of ceramic

I was surprised the evaporust still blackened the razors as much as soaking in the pure liquid did. I sort of assumed the constant agitation of the ceramic over the steel would have prevented that. Oh well.

So they are now tumbling in the polishing ceramic, also a wet media, but this time with liquid metal polish cut with WD40 making it more watery consistency to ensure the media moves nicely around the bowl. After another 24 hrs will check again and move up to walnut and then corn. So a four day process all told.
Read the long thread Glen pioneered about using these cleaners with razors and thought it a neat idea to try. I am sometimes in too much of a hurry when I sand butchered blades and something like this may inject a measured approach that works well, and frees me up to do other things while this important step is being done for me.
Anyway, just posting it up in case it works, or in case it don't..

This tumbler thing reminds me Mike...my daughter was born on Crete, in a little town on the Mediterranean, a long time ago. I had to hand wash dirty diapers in a little plastic tub. Well, I fell behind and had a cool idea...there was a little tide pool (no critters in it) just in front of the house which would fill and drain. I tossed a big bunch of dirty diapers into the tide pool and fished them out later in the day. Presto-Change-Oh, they were spiffy clean! Possibly not the greenest option, but it was a long time ago (45 years) Carry on gents