Thread: The Butchered Blade

Good approach to the oldies, outback! Fast and easy to do the back-slash on the bottom stabilizer and be done with it!
Brilliant!
Saves steel too, I expect!

Originally Posted by dinnermint

Just tootin' around, posting on SRP?

I finally have a chance to upload my shorties I fixed up a few weeks ago. These will be my travel blades, so I didn't put a whole lot of effort removing pitting. Plus, the clear scaled one is incredibly thin and has an etching "Eight Brothers Tobacco", which comes up as a tobacco store based in Milwaukee way back when. I over tightened the bejesus out of them, on accident, but they have loosened up a touch. Great learning experience and probably freaked out my neighbors a bit. To cut the blades, I used a damp face cloth on a cutting board with everything clamped together. I do believe I saw Outback post his set-up and I completely stole it, thanks for that! The clear scaled blade took *forever* to hone past pitting and even then, I had to stop before I got to more rust spots. The black scales is still in process of getting honed right, but I dislike how I cut the toe. And the scales. I have a few more busted blades, so that one may just be a memento to my very first shorty until I run out of projects to get to it. Without further ado, cell phone pics!

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You can see my attempts to just grind off the steel with a stone dremel attachment, this actually made it more difficult to get a good cut. This steel was harder to cut than I thought. I've worked with a bunch of mild and stainless steel, quite impressed with heat treatments.
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Had to be guided in at first, it seems to have loosed a touch and centers better all on its own.

Just looks like you need to grind the top of the spine back some more, then it will match the bottom's shape.
They should be even, in radius.

Or at least as close possible.

Originally Posted by outback

Stabilizers reshaped, and ready for some high honing, to clean up and even the edge, on a Nani 220.

Did you reduce the width of the blade, to maintain the geometry of the bevel angle?

I'm probably going to do just that and make the toe a more gentle curve

Originally Posted by outback

Stabilizers reshaped, and ready for some high honing, to clean up and even the edge, on a Nani 220.

Really like the way these turned out, nice work. The Hess is calling me! You must have reshaped the toe a little because it blends nicely, looks natural. Good on the stabilizer too. I'm beginning to see broken blades in a different light - some can be shorties one direction, some can be shorties the other way!

Yes I reshaped the toe. Or it would have looked like a meat cleaver of some sort.
But only from mid toe to edge.

Nice job Mike. I have something to send ya with the nickel rod & collars.

Finished up cleaning the Boker.
Did some hand sanding w/600&1000, removing most of the pits & patina, then gave the blade a satin finish to help hide some of the uglies, and highlight the etch.

No buffing for this one boys...as is, it is.

I'm not sure if this qualifies as a butchered blade but it was the worst pitted blade in my restore box. Started as a 7/8 and ended at .850. The pitting along the bevel was terrible. There was even a small frown near the toe that may have been the result of corrosion. Seemed an odd place for a frown. I wanted to see just what I could clean up on my grinder. The makers stamp was a bit light and uneven so I was forced to leave some pitting. The bevel came out small and even. I'm progressing along the learning curve with the grinder. Some before pictures, a couple after 600 grit and the finished blade in black horn. I have a few Holley razors but this is the first coffin I have found.

Lookin good Karl, haven't got into grinding yet, still all by hand...phew!

Nice work Karl! that blade only qualifies due to the before picture. There's nothing butchered about that result sir. Very fine grinding evenness achieved.
Well done!