Thread: W&B 8/8 FBU shorty project

Come the end of the day it’s a valuable learning experience and you might get a good shaving razor as a bonus.

Originally Posted by RezDog

Come the end of the day it’s a valuable learning experience and you might get a good shaving razor as a bonus.

Totally agree, it's one one of the reasons I started this in the first place. Several techniques I haven't tried. It's also why I wasn't super upset over destroying the wedge, I really do need to get better at making them. Speaking of that little goof-up, the collars are saveable. I've got three of the bullseyes and one of the under collars cleaned up pretty well. Just takes some time and a bit of stubbornness.

All that matters, is pitting at the edge. I too have some razors with pits on the blade, though not as bad as yours, and even the bevels, but just a few thousands from the edge.

They shave just fine and unless I reset the bevel, the pits will never touch the edge. No need to reset the bevels.

You just have to, hone around the pits, now because of the large pitting blooms you, may have some crumbling steel. You won’t find out until you hone it.

As said, you will certainly learn a lot about honing.

Set the bevel on the 1k then fine tune on a 4k, to get the pits to clear the edge, lightly polish on a 8k and finisher. The 8k and finisher will not remove much material. Just keep watching the pits on the bevel.

Ive ran across a couple that the pits were so bad that when i got to honing it and then looking at it on the scope i found holes not pits in the bevel. Those i worked out completely. Looked like swiss cheese.

My dyeing horn powder experiment is done. Mixed up some dye and let the powder soak for 30-40 minutes. I poured the mixture onto a folded paper towel and the horn had good color. I wrapped it in the towel to rinse off the excess dye...soak, squeeze, repeat a bunch of times. Apparently 220 grit horn powder will pass right through a wet paper towel, that idea went down the drain

Quit messin around, get ya some hair dye.

Mix up a half batch in a plastic bag, drop your scales in for a few hours. ( no kiddin ). Rinse, steel wool, for satin finish. Polish/ Buff, for high shine.






Its cheep.!

That's what I'm working with. I was trying to dye the horn powder I was going to mix with the epoxy for filling bug bites (same idea as your bog oak dust). Then I was going to soak the whole thing in dye. I've got a couple of test batches for filling the bites drying. One I put some dye into the epoxy, and the other crushed charcoal. Right now I think the charcoal will be the winner.

Actually, wooden matches work well. Burn the match, remove the head, crush the burnt wood.

Or just ask me for some big oak, dust. Got plenty.



Charcoal will work too.

Thanks for the offer, if you want to send some I'll be happy to try it for a future project.

I think the charcoal will work well. It's giving a nice black color and hasn't messed with the cure time. It's a little grainy, but I didn't grind it super fine, just smacked it with a hammer a few times. I'll run it through a mortar and pestle for the real fix.

The dye seems to have slowed the cure time for the epoxy and the color is purple when thin. I'll know for sure tomorrow. Oh, and this dye isn't a two part box dye. It's something called a pot dye my daughter told me about. It's premixed and stable for unknown amounts of time. Kind of a paste consistency. You can mix it with water or smear it on as the paste. $10 for a good size jar, probably get 20+ scale pairs from a jar. And as a bonus it smells like grape jelly . I haven't entirely decided if I'll use this or a box dye for the final soak. The purple tint makes me hesitate a bit.

The top left is the charcoal mix

When i used the dye that Outback talks about i was a little worried as it too is purple when you use it. But in the end it was black.