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  1. #101
    I love Burls....... and Acrylic HARRYWALLY's Avatar
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    Thought I'd add this, I think I've blabbed about it before. I've been reading about what other wood turners have been using for finishes, and focusing on what the true professionals are using. Hardwax oil keeps being mentioned as their top choice. In the near future I'll be giving it a go.

    HardWax-Oil : woodchuckers.com

    This is the Canadian site I've been getting my stabilizing fluid from, and they also have tons of other great products that are always tempting me.

    For you American boys, I'm sure you should have no problem finding someone down there carrying these products.
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  3. #102
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    Quote Originally Posted by HARRYWALLY View Post
    Crap Kyle. I had a brush do this to me quite a while ago. It pissed me off royally, so I feel your pain. I sanded it all off and sprayed the whole thing with high gloss poly. That also makes for an excellent finish, but there's a learning curve with spraying poly without runs. I'd have to totally agree with everything Mike has said. CA is so frustrating. One reason I looked to another finish, like a good oil.
    So as far as saving this one. What's the best way to rechuck it with the knot being on there?

  4. #103
    Senior Member AKmik's Avatar
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    Very interesting.

    Thanks for the info, Im reading up on that stuff right meow.

    INGREDIENTS
    Based on natural plant oils and waxes (sunflower oil, soya oil, thistle oil, carnauba wax and candelilla wax), paraffin, lead-free siccatives (drying agents) and water-repellent additives. Dearomatized white spirit (benzene-free).

    Pretty cryptic, list of ingredients, thats whats in it...but what is in it hahaa water repellant additives...Im reading up some more, I want to compare it to my old favorite waterlox.
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    Oh the $%#@ing sideways pics are KILLING me!!
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  5. #104
    I love Burls....... and Acrylic HARRYWALLY's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by prodigy View Post
    So as far as saving this one. What's the best way to rechuck it with the knot being on there?
    Good question......

    Rubber bumpers for your chuck would be the ideal way, but you probably don't have those. Even if you did, I'm not sure you could reverse chuck it to finish the bottom......

    wrapping the base with masking tape comes to mind, but we still have the same problem with reverse chucking it to finish the bottom....

    I've tried wrapping the badger hair with masking tape, and grabbing onto that, but it just doesn't work.....

    If it were me, I'd hand sand all that crackle off and give it 7-8 spray coats of high gloss poly.

    If that's not your flavor, sand it down and do a good oil like Tru Oil.


    If none of that tickles your fancy, well, you might have to live with it.
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    Quote Originally Posted by HARRYWALLY View Post
    Good question......

    Rubber bumpers for your chuck would be the ideal way, but you probably don't have those. Even if you did, I'm not sure you could reverse chuck it to finish the bottom......

    wrapping the base with masking tape comes to mind, but we still have the same problem with reverse chucking it to finish the bottom....

    I've tried wrapping the badger hair with masking tape, and grabbing onto that, but it just doesn't work.....

    If it were me, I'd hand sand all that crackle off and give it 7-8 spray coats of high gloss poly.

    If that's not your flavor, sand it down and do a good oil like Tru Oil.


    If none of that tickles your fancy, well, you might have to live with it.
    Do you think hand applying another coat of CA, inside at room temperature, would fill in the cracks and give a uniform finish? I'm not sure what I'll do, but it will be well thought out. Shavemac 30mm d01 knots are not cheap!
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  7. #106
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    Valuable lesson I learned from this. Wait at least 48 hours after finishing a handle to install the knot, just to see how it reacts during curing. And don't use CA glue below 70 degrees Fahrenheit!
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  8. #107
    Who's that guy think he is... JoeSomebody's Avatar
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    Another bonus to the parks epoxy is that there is no or very little smell, so you can do it in the house.
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    This brush is 4 years old and still shiney! A very durable finish.
    Luck is a matter of preparation meeting opportunity. ~Lucius Annaeus Seneca

  9. #108
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    Quote Originally Posted by prodigy View Post
    Do you think hand applying another coat of CA, inside at room temperature, would fill in the cracks and give a uniform finish? I'm not sure what I'll do, but it will be well thought out. Shavemac 30mm d01 knots are not cheap!
    I hear yuh! and I agree with yuh!

    At this point you have nothing to loose..... except that knot, and gives me a thought that I'll mention at the end.

    That's actually a good idea Kyle and would be worth a try. Worse case if it doesn't work, you're still no further up shit creek and resort back to plan B.

    Now back to my thought....

    If worse comes to worse, you trim that handle down, get that knot outta there and start at square 1. Obviously a last resort, but that knot is worth far more than a buckeye burl handle. Just sayin.....
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  10. #109
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    Quote Originally Posted by prodigy View Post
    Valuable lesson I learned from this. Wait at least 48 hours after finishing a handle to install the knot, just to see how it reacts during curing. And don't use CA glue below 70 degrees Fahrenheit!
    Noted!!!!!
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  11. #110
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    The guy that teaches the bowl turning class I'm taking at woodcraft tomorrow is probably the most knowledgeable Turner I've ever seen. Granted I don't know that many, but he knows his stuff. Maybe I'll bring it with me to ask what he'd do. I'm thinking I can wrap the knot up pretty tight in plastic or paper then tape it. Possibly the knot will fit through the center of the chuck, allowing me access to both sides? In the future I think I'll save ca glue for pens. I'm going to try osmo polyx #3011 and see how that does.
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