Thread: First brush

Originally Posted by Panama60

Crazing can be a desired finish. I actually kinda like it, but I know what you're going for. You might start thinking about a way
to create a temperature controlled environment.

Honestly I don't really mind it, but it was a surprise so I was kinda bummed. My biggest fear is whether or not it will still protect wood from water during use. As far as a temperature controlled environment, I won't be able to do that until I buy my own house, which is at least a year out. Thanks for the input guys, maybe I'll do danish oil next time.

CA does make a nice glass like finish on pens, and scales. Never used it on a brush though personally. That's a good looking turn sir, nice handle.
Did you use an accelerator to speed the cure?
Acetone wiped while spinning will blend that out again, but will necessitate more coats being applied. Can wrap the knot in masking tape to protect it, and the brush while you rechuck.
Maybe a heat lamp in the shop aimed at the lathe will allow you to work into the colder temps?
Had to move my wood working stuff into the basement from the garage for the same reasons.
Love winter, hate the cold though, lol.

Because I'm a college student my options are limited. My lathe is on the front porch, so I don't really have optimal conditions. I might try the acetone to blend and refinish, but maybe when this cold snap passes. Thanks for the encouragement guys, it means a lot to know that some of you more experienced guys like my stuff. Mike what finish do you normally do on brushes. I'll be at woodcraft tomorrow for a bowl turning class and could try something new. I currently only have ca and danish oil.

Crazing will allow moisture to get to the wood, darkening it in the same pattern as the craze, but not evenly.

I once lost a job at a tile shop for explaining this very thing to the home owner. I can't look at a crazed finish
without thinking of that tile shop...oh well. Best of luck, buddy!

For me, urethane's, tru oil, and friction pastes have been my preferred finish choices.
Tru oil on the non oily woods, urethane's or pastes on the oily ones.
Danish oils always a good finish as well.
Seems the oils take longest, but are the longest lasting as well.
Go figure,,

What pastes should I look for? I will be doing a lot of cocobolo and lignum vitae.

I use Shellawax cream, and General turners finish, both with good results. I get them at LeeValley. General's seemed slightly easier to get good at. Shellawax is a bit trickier to get the right technique between application and removal.
I also use a 2 bar type polish wax (hut PPP) designed for pens on handles without beads or grooves in their design with good results.

I always got great results from a 2 part epoxy finish, parks super glaze is the brand. I made a turning machine from an old water softener timer, mount the brush on the bottom of the knot hole. It turns at 1 rpm and works great. No runs on the finish, and usually 1 or 2 coats.

Originally Posted by prodigy

The stabilizer was done by me in a home vacuum chamber. I used cactus juice, which gets baked in the oven for several hours. It was done several weeks ago, so I don't think that was the issue. From what I've read, it is likely from being applied outside at near freezing temps.

Gotcha.. It seems figured out, cold temps applied CA and then once it warmed up it crazed. Yeah Im on the no CA train as well. I have it in the shop but I try to avoid it as a finish. I will try on a brush or two at some point. But I prefer waterlox or tru oil by far. Then for the oily exotic woods like coco, or African blackwood I soak in teak oil.

Yeah man cactus juice and the home stabilizing bit leaves much to be desired. I went down that rabbit hole years ago for my knife work, spent a bunch of cash on several different attempts and all were just mehh. I have stacks of cactus juice stabilized material as well from a pro who does it full time, and that is just alright as far as I'm concerned. still absorbs water, will still warp, and still needs a finish. I use waterlox over that and it turns out great.
Here's a piece coated w waterlox



For the real deal try some stabilized wood from K&G, that you can turn and polish up and leave it bare , polishes up like acrylic and it is truly stabilized.

The friction finishes all are magic! mylands, Hut crystal coat, the hard sticks from hut all awesome but hot water will trash them fast. I used them all on game calls, they look fantastic until they get wet and handled then dull quickly. Just got a sample of shellawax last week, looks great for pens and such.

Crap Kyle. I had a brush do this to me quite a while ago. It pissed me off royally, so I feel your pain. I sanded it all off and sprayed the whole thing with high gloss poly. That also makes for an excellent finish, but there's a learning curve with spraying poly without runs. I'd have to totally agree with everything Mike has said. CA is so frustrating. One reason I looked to another finish, like a good oil.