Thread: What types of watches do you like?

Originally Posted by thebigspendur

There are loads of quality outfits making watches in all price ranges. I kind of gravitate to the German outfits like Sinn and Nomos and Nautische Glashutte. I also like Seiko for bang for the buck watches and even their high end pieces are really nice and I like Aqua Dive and Doxa for dive watches. From the higher end brands I like IWC.

Your right about the Seiko's high end watches. The Grand Seiko is a fantastic watch. I love the SBGA011 Snowflake. For those interested here's a little history about the Grand Seiko.

They're hand made and the vintage ones wiped the floor with the major Swiss brands for accuracy before the COSC was formed in 1973. Before then there was the Astronomical Observatory Authorisation Chronometer Standard (+/- 2/3 seconds/day) competitions. This is to a much higher standard. During the entire 23+ years of testing, 5093 wristwatches were submitted for certification. Only 3253 passed (about 64%). Today around 94% pass the COSC test first time.

Just a few manufacturers participated in the observatory testing. Omega and Patek did so every year. Other participants were Rolex, Zenith, Longines, Movado, Vacheron & Constantin, Girard-Perregaux, Ulysse Nardin, Cyma and Favre-Leuba as well as numerous independent professional watchmakers. Then the Grand Seiko appeared. It's movement outperformed all of the Swiss movements at the time. Only 2 brands submitted their standard production movements built for retail sales (Seiko and Girard-Perregaux). All the others built specially made movements just for the competition. In the mid 60's out of all the watches submitted only the Grand Seiko and the GP passed the test and by the late sixties they were the only 2 companies allowed to sell their watches with this designation. The Seiko was still a production line movement but the GP was now a specially built movement. The competition was ended by the Swiss in the early 1970s after two straight wins by Grand Seiko. Some Swiss watch manufacturers demanded the end of the observatory competitions. In 1973 the current Swiss COSC was founded. Run by the Swiss for the Swiss brands only.

Originally Posted by thebigspendur

Ball didn't know squat about watches and they never manufactured anything. He ran a pocketwatch regulation and time service back in the early 20th century and late 19th which serviced the railroad industry. He sold watches which were made by other outfits like Waltham and Hamilton and Elgin and some others with his name on them. In the 1950s his wristwatches were made in Switzerland and the company went defunct then anyway.

The current ball name has no relationship with the original ball Brand other than they bought the name and when you do that you buy the history too.

I'm a little confused by your comments. I was giving a little info on the current status of Ball Watches not their history. It wasn't meant to be a pro or con assessment of their company. Just some simple facts of today. Regardless of your feelings about them they do make some credible watches using well designed ETA movements. I'm not a big fan of their styling other than the one I mentioned. YMMV.

Speaking of Seiko's - I've got a Seiko Ventura, nice big watch, Quartz Movement with an automatic type function that charges the battery for up to a month, OK watch. One of those Citizen radio controlled watches that charges via sunlight, a nice old Tag Automatic Chronograph...and speaking of Seiko's - this is one of my favorites, a very old Seiko 7T59, still have everything original (still have original box, papers, links), always treated it very well and is regularly serviced, still keeps exact time comparing it against the atomic clock:

Originally Posted by Brenngun

Your right about the Seiko's high end watches. The Grand Seiko is a fantastic watch. I love the SBGA011 Snowflake. For those interested here's a little history about the Grand Seiko.

They're hand made and the vintage ones wiped the floor with the major Swiss brands for accuracy before the COSC was formed in 1973. Before then there was the Astronomical Observatory Authorisation Chronometer Standard (+/- 2/3 seconds/day) competitions. This is to a much higher standard. During the entire 23+ years of testing, 5093 wristwatches were submitted for certification. Only 3253 passed (about 64%). Today around 94% pass the COSC test first time.

Just a few manufacturers participated in the observatory testing. Omega and Patek did so every year. Other participants were Rolex, Zenith, Longines, Movado, Vacheron & Constantin, Girard-Perregaux, Ulysse Nardin, Cyma and Favre-Leuba as well as numerous independent professional watchmakers. Then the Grand Seiko appeared. It's movement outperformed all of the Swiss movements at the time. Only 2 brands submitted their standard production movements built for retail sales (Seiko and Girard-Perregaux). All the others built specially made movements just for the competition. In the mid 60's out of all the watches submitted only the Grand Seiko and the GP passed the test and by the late sixties they were the only 2 companies allowed to sell their watches with this designation. The Seiko was still a production line movement but the GP was now a specially built movement. The competition was ended by the Swiss in the early 1970s after two straight wins by Grand Seiko. Some Swiss watch manufacturers demanded the end of the observatory competitions. In 1973 the current Swiss COSC was founded. Run by the Swiss for the Swiss brands only.





I'm a little confused by your comments. I was giving a little info on the current status of Ball Watches not their history. It wasn't meant to be a pro or con assessment of their company. Just some simple facts of today. Regardless of your feelings about them they do make some credible watches using well designed ETA movements. I'm not a big fan of their styling other than the one I mentioned. YMMV.

I have nothing against the watches per se they are quality pieces. My gripe with them is their attempt to connect with early railroad history in the U.S which is 100% fraud. To be honest most Swiss watches are outfits that went defunct and some outfit bought the name and of course when you do that you buy the history too.

When COSC was established at first they had an office in Tokyo and certified non-swiss watches but that didn't last long. COSC was actually pushed by Rolex from day one. They (in the early fays) where the main users of COSC. To this day the best watches like Patek have no use for COSC.

I've always been a Seiko Fan. I used to have a big collection of vintage Seiko pieces and limited editions but I sold them all some time ago. I still have a Quartz piece my wife bought me back in 1977 or so. it still runs like a champ. I also have a new LE edition with urushi dial work and a new Astron which is quartz based and keeps time with GPS Satellites. I've had a few Spring Drives and a couple Grand Seiko's too.

Originally Posted by ironmaned1987

I AM interested in the German brands, however, have zero knowledge of what brands I should trust and look into here. Maybe you can enlighten me! FYI, I currently own the following watches (in order of price, high to low): Tag Heuter Aqua Racer, Omega Seamaster, Movado Museum, Filson Scout (made by Shinola Detroit) and a Luminox 1944 Aviator. All of the above are Quartz movements except for the Tag which is Automatic. Quite frankly I prefer the quartzes! I am looking for a nice quality German watch in the $500 - $1,000 range. Hopefully, bigspendur, you can point me in the right direction! Thank you for you help!

Junghans, Laco, Limes,Archimede, Stowa, Sinn, Nomos, Dievas, Damasko, UTS are some with pieces close to your price range on the high end. Some have quartz most don't. if you want quartz I'd just get a Seiko honestly. They are the ones who really pioneered quartz and high accuracy quartz mvmts.

Quality watches really start around a grand and quickly go up. An outfit like Hamilton makes some nice pieces and has good bang for the buck value. They are Swiss though I'm not sure their low price pieces are Swiss made. Either way they make a very nice watch.

Most German watches tend to reflect German design (think German cars) and make what they call tool watches. if you want fancy watches look Swiss or Asian.

Oh lord I have been perusing watches as of late...a kings ransom they are and wouldn't ya know ,I take a liking to Seiko's .....yer killin me man.But they are nice .

Originally Posted by thebigspendur

I have nothing against the watches per se they are quality pieces. My gripe with them is their attempt to connect with early railroad history in the U.S which is 100% fraud. To be honest most Swiss watches are outfits that went defunct and some outfit bought the name and of course when you do that you buy the history too.

When COSC was established at first they had an office in Tokyo and certified non-swiss watches but that didn't last long. COSC was actually pushed by Rolex from day one. They (in the early fays) where the main users of COSC. To this day the best watches like Patek have no use for COSC.

First let me say that I'm a big fan of mechanical watches. My wife says it's a sickness. I can normally find interest in just about any manufacturers offerings. I would not dispute that Patek makes quality watches. I've owned 2 of them in my 40+ years of watch collecting. I fully enjoyed both of them. Having said that I would like to talk a bit more about Patek and their apparent lack of use for the COSC.

The funny thing about Patek is that they never seem to have use for any standards institution that doesn't primarily support Patek and their product only. Back in 2009 they announced at Baselworld that they would no longer submit their movements for inspection by the Geneva Seal Bureau. This was a huge about face after building their business and reputation during the last century by being the biggest user of and strongest supporter of the Poinçon de Genève. Why??

Frankly this happened after some newcomers like Roger Dubuis and Cartier also submitted and were give the Geneva Seal. Their excuse for this abandonment was a denial of their request to make a rate test a mandatory part of the Geneva Seal. For some reason after 100+ years of touting this seal to be the best quality assurance in the world Patek all of a sudden decided it wasn't. I'm sure it had nothing to do with the fact that suddenly they weren't the only kids on the Geneva Seal block. Incidentally the rate test was always an option available to all manufacturers as part of the Geneva Seal. Gee how could Patek not know this? Could it be that they never made that optional request for their watches over the past 100+ years?

May not be the same kind of history as you mentioned with respect to Ball but could be interpreted as a zebra with a different stripe. Or the pot calling the kettle black. Or ..... well you know the rest. You know what they say ....... if it walks like a duck and quacks like a duck then it's a .....

Originally Posted by Phrank

Speaking of Seiko's - I've got a Seiko Ventura, nice big watch, Quartz Movement with an automatic type function that charges the battery for up to a month, OK watch. One of those Citizen radio controlled watches that charges via sunlight, a nice old Tag Automatic Chronograph...and speaking of Seiko's - this is one of my favorites, a very old Seiko 7T59, still have everything original (still have original box, papers, links), always treated it very well and is regularly serviced, still keeps exact time comparing it against the atomic clock:

Phrank, Nice pic. Would love to see some of your TAG if you still have it.

Originally Posted by Brenngun

Phrank, Nice pic. Would love to see some of your TAG if you still have it.

You've got some great watches, still think a couple of W&B's would be more than a fair trade for a Rolex or two.....

My old Tag (765.406), love the slight whirring noise it makes when it auto winds and the ever so slight weight shift on the wrist....really like this watch, works perfectly and keeps suprisingly good time, loses maybe a minute or two a week tops:



And just picked up an Omega Speedmaster Automatic Chrono...yes I know, LOL, not the Pro, just a cheap, mass produced junk copy of the famed, "Moonwatch"(thought I'd add that ahead of time hehe)...but I love it nonetheless. It's in the shop now for a tune-up with someone local who does great work....

Originally Posted by Phrank

You've got some great watches, still think a couple of W&B's would be more than a fair trade for a Rolex or two.....

My old Tag (765.406), love the slight whirring noise it makes when it auto winds and the ever so slight weight shift on the wrist....really like this watch, works perfectly and keeps suprisingly good time, loses maybe a minute or two a week tops:



And just picked up an Omega Speedmaster Automatic Chrono...yes I know, LOL, not the Pro, just a cheap, mass produced junk copy of the famed, "Moonwatch"(thought I'd add that ahead of time hehe)...but I love it nonetheless. It's in the shop now for a tune-up with someone local who does great work....

Phrank. Nothing at all wrong with a Speedmaster. Doesn't have to be a pro to be a great watch. Would love to see some pics when you get it back from the shop.

Sweet TAG! That whirring noise and weight shift sensation is due to the resident Valjoux 7750 movement. The winding rotor is unidirectional meaning it only winds the movement while spinning in one direction. When it spins in the opposite direction it freewheels with very little resistance. When that happens at the right rpm you get the sound and sensation you described. It's supercool and is always one of the first things a new owner will ask "is this normal". It is and it's such a great unintended feature. Hard to believe the rotor can be spinning that fast. At one time I owned a Tudor big block chrono that had the same movement. I loved that watch until my eyes told me I had to sell it. I've got to dig up some of my old pics. That movement is bullet proof. It will be with you forever.