Thread: Hone of the Day

Some guys kill the edge others don't it's a matter of preference, I am in about the 50/50 camp, killing the edge is exactly what it implies you are making it blunt by "Bread knifing" the edge, think slicing bread, it takes away the cutting edge and exposes new steel to hone on.

Some will kill the edge before every honing session some will do it one or more times after bevel set and reset the bevel before moving on, if I have a stubborn edge I do it but normally I just go 4/8K then finish, if you are just starting out honing I would suggest you not try it as you can do more harm than good.

2 blades bevel set on the chosera 1k. A club fbu and ern ator. Thinking I might try the 1k shave as others are doing in another thread. Haven't done yet. Might follow with every stone through the progression

Originally Posted by Porl

I just wondered why you kill the edge and is it important to do that? It's just that if I had to do that I would be there a good long while with my 12k trying to get it back.

I know this was directed at Phrank, but I'll throw in a tidbit anyway.

If you "kill" the edge on glass (say a beer bottle), it would take only a minimal amount of strokes on a 12,000 grit stone to get your edge back, as this folds the edge rather than abrade it.

However, I use this method to rule out false positives after doing bevel work. I don't see very much use for it at the finishing stage.

Best regards,

Pieter

Just finishing the W&B, Celebrated, FBU for the second time, just wasn't quite there IMO...didn't kill the edge, went down to the 3k, and added the 5k and 10k, now just going to finish it on the Escher, Barber's Delight....shave test tomorrow and hopefully perfect.

I honed these three at the Denver Meet yesterday. The Sheffield and the Boker Red-Injun both needed a new bevel, so I killed the edges and then went with what I got: Norton 1k, 4k, 8k and Naniwa 12k. This morning before testing, I gave each about 10 passes on CrOx pasted balsa, 30 strokes on fabric, 60 on Latigo, then 40 more on a Tony Miller Fast Bridle. The little W&B needed a refresh only, so I started on the 8k/12k and finished the same way. All three passed the test, though the W&B is still a little rough. Gotta get out the loupe and see what I can see. Honing is starting to make some sense finally. My solution: think less, and listen and feel more. Who knew?

Just honed up my Spartacus T.I

All my prime Sheffield blades are honed , locked, cocked n rocked

So yesterday I did a Hart and today this one.

Beautiful blade and scales..

Thanks..

Killing the edge maybe a good thing for a razor you do not know as Pieter said it's a good way of ruling out false positives, on the the other hand if it's one of your own a tried a tested razors then you do not need to kill the edge as you are only going to refresh a edge which you already know.

Based on 100 x visual observation the "restored" John Cockhill Sheffield wedge did not like the final finish on the striped Thruingian, which surprised me.


It did like the final finish on the vintage J-nat barber hone. The shave test will tell.... No edges were harmed in the honing of this razor....
MIke

New stone Shobu Asagi Karasu Tamamoku 213 x 78 x 28-32 1.1kg razor Dovo 6/8 Flowing carbon steel.



This Shobu I bought as a final finishing stone. Its rated very high in particle size and high + in hardness. The consensus with the supplier is that it is a hard final finisher for razors. yesterday I honed the Flowing up to 10 k synthetic Naniwa superstone. I then shaved with it. Shave was fine and I would be usually happy with that edge. However I then put it on the Shobu and I honed quietly with medium slurry for a good 15 minutes with little pressure, then down to a lighter misty slurry for a few more minutes, to no pressure at all.
I wasn't expecting a competitor to a gok 20 edge, but I wanted smoothness. Anyway I just this minute shaved with it, and the edge was a pleasure to shave with. What I liked about it was that it was very forgiving, not an acute cutter, it was probably not a whole lot sharper than a 10k synth, but really what is? I liked the smoothness, and comfort. Now I just have to go back to my other 2 jnats (Ozuku and Wakasa) and see if I can get them producing edges like the shobu. If anyone has any ideas as to alternative methods I might try, I'd of course welcome input.
PS I can't see a whole lot of karasu either, but in person this stone is quite a looker.

Originally Posted by JOB15

Just honed up my Spartacus T.I

All my prime Sheffield blades are honed , locked, cocked n rocked

So yesterday I did a Hart and today this one.

Beautiful blade and scales..

what type of base hone is that? and what are all those different nagura stones? go around the horn please. do you use them all in a single session? or only some?